Hey Everyone,
I apologize about the mass email but my blog is shot to shit and I'm behind on a lot of emails.
So I'm nearing the 9 month mark here in Korea and as of right now I'm still unsure of what is going on next. I'm planning on going to Thailand and Vietnam for most of February and March if money allows. After that it's pretty much up in the air. I've considered doing a second year in Korea but I'm also thinking of other locales. In the running are Japan or Europe (Spain, Greece, Italy, Czech Republic) and Taiwan pretty much in that order. Europe is probably my top preference but it's difficult to find work there mainly for visa reasons. As for when I'll be back in the States, I really can't say right now. The soonest would possibly be the end of March or April but I've also thought about forgoing a trip back home entirely if it were to mean I could get the right job in the right place and my family would not disown me.
As far as life here. The job has mellowed and I feel much better there most of the time. In some regards I feel like I've become a good teacher, in others I feel merely adequate. I struggle with discipline in larger classes but what teacher doesn't? In general there is less stress at work even though I'm working a little more than I was earlier on.
I feel like most of the time I'm getting out of the house less and less. It's still difficult at times to find things to do. Although I'm sitting in a coffee shop with atrocious music and worse coffee, here there are not the hang outs or options like back home. I had a dream I was at Emo's sweating obnoxiously watching a band play its heart out in that beautiful sweaty steam-pit of a venue. Alas, no options for that here. It's been so long since I've written about what has happened here I'm not sure where to start, then I think maybe there is not that much to talk about.
I still like I haven't put my finger on the culture here. Lately what has been annoying me here, and I don't know if it is the entire culture or just the few people I know, how little curiosity there is. That doesn't sound right. I mean, we can talk about world issues and such, but I find little intrigue about my life, or about the things I feel are important about me that help build relationships. In the same vein, I find a lot of questions I might ask are averted with curt answers or that the question is simply treated as unimportant. It's hard for me even to think of specific examples of the latter but sometimes I feel like I reach a wall with some Koreans very early on that reduces how well I could know them. It feels as if I don't know much more about people I met 6 months ago than I do now. And we Americans, or westerners tend to be open, often too open, I realize that, so who knows. I just sometimes wonder if it's the same between Koreans. Friendships here are largely a result of situation (age, school, workplace) and I wonder if how it is the same between them. I see them laughing, arguing, crying, just like we do. And I have those moments as well, but often personal questions are inconsequential facts about life, "how old were you when.." "what did you do after college..." but seldom more emotive or analytical questions. I mean really, who gives a shit about when something happens half the time if you don't flesh out the fact with the details and feelings about it that make it important (or not)?
On a different note, my boss took us all on a little trip this weekend and that was nice. I've really not gotten out and seen a lot of this country which is largely my fault but also a result of not having that much time off. I simply don't like to travel that much if I have only two days and have to travel both. We went to Gyeongju , the historical capital of Korea. It was really beautiful even if at times it felt a little rushed. This country has true seasons and right now all the areas outside of the cities are picture postcards. The mountains, of which this country is covered by, are all gently finding their place in fall and the colors or so rich that you would find yourself unable to turn away of something equally amazing wasn't sitting next to whatever you happen to be gazing at. I spent a lot of the time in the back of the car digesting the scenery of which there is nothing in Texas to compare. Every other mile there is land that has been cultivated, largely for rice, of which we're in the latter stages of harvest. They draw these gorgeous organic but linear, patterns in the carved out valleys and mountains sides. The trees don't have the height of a place like the NW US, but the variation of the foliage and the colors leaves you enamored. Then, when you slow down enough, you can often make out the top of one of the temples hiding in a mountain or less obviously, the mounds and tomb markers nestled beneath the trees. Those with money and property, are still buried in the traditional method which is similar to us but instead of digging a hole, the body is (I think in a coffin type box) laid on the ground and then piled upwards with stones and then dirt where grass is allowed to grow. They really are quite beautiful in how the mounds don't disrupt the nature at all but instead blend in and the trees act like a protector over the tomb. Ancient kings and figures of power were buried in the same way but on a much grander scale. We got to tour the area where dozens of these tombs were but here they reached up to 12 meters or more. This is area is a much different experience in how you have many of these tombs in varying height in the same area, probably a square mile or so (I'm really bad at gauging size on that scale). This burial area lies in a valley so the mountains are on the perimeter and there are pathways that wind around the separate tombs. This was probably site that has most affected me and I hope to return when the area is under a blanket of snow.
We went to other areas. Amongst many temples, we also saw the oldest observatory in Asia (and I was told also the world) which I think goes back to 647. The Buddhist temples are among the most popular and famous tourist spots. The thing is for me, once you've been to a few they get slightly redundant. Secondly, many were destroyed during the Japanese occupation along with other historical sites and have since been rebuilt. It's understandable that they rebuilt these structures as there would simply be very few left if they did not, but it takes away a tiny bit. The Japanese were ruthless during their reins of Korea and still are the reasons for a lot of resentment and sometimes conflictive relationship. Were a lot of these structures do excel is once again in their integration with their environment. Buddhism, the little I know about it, holds nature equal with man and the architecture usually illustrates amazingly. Unlike some of our structures (which are modern in comparison and don't make for a good comparison in truth) the roofs blend in with the mountain they rest on. They don't stand and dominate a landscape like Grecian and western historical sites tend to do (and consequently ours). The decorative painting, while sometimes loud, uses colors produced from all the seasons and is usually muted by its placement beneath the roof and obvious once you are closer to the building. But enough about that. The temples really are beautiful and usually still in use which adds to the experience.
I'm looking over what I read, and even though I have more to say, I feel I've probably lost the majority of my audience so I'll stop now. I'll try to send these semi-regularly now since my Blog seems as it will not be resurrected. I do want to talk about the little old women, with the 80 year old smokers voice, out-drinking everyone else who ran the pension or Min-Bak we stayed at, but I'll save it for another email.
About the pictures. There is one old one from the spring of a temple here in my city and the rest are from the past week. We had a Halloween party at the school. I was in charge of the Haunted House and they didn't get any pictures of that on this camera (nor me). The rest are from this past weekend but unfortunately my friend's camera didn't really get the best shots. I'm hoping to buy a camera in the next month so hopefully I'll have some more picts soon.
Please, people write me!! Even though I'm not coming back for a while, and I'm often bad about quick responses, I still want to hear what is going on in everyones life.
One day to the election, let's all pray to our selected gods, oh, and vote.
-c.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
And this kid's playing guns in the street
And one's pointing his tree branch at me
So I put my hands up, I say "Enough is enough.
If you walk away, I'll walk away."
And he shot me dead
-Bright Eyes
"One Foot in Front of the Other"
Sunday, October 31, 2004
Thursday, April 15, 2004
journal 15?
I know there are so many things I keep talking about writing about, things I need to finish, bridges I need to jump off... whatever. This entry is personal and largely due to the the blessing that spring weather is dropping on us. Those annual feelings that your turn your gut in excited ways leaving you senseless and unsure of which direction to look and even less of which direction to walk.
The Spring session at my school is divided into two parts. We're winding down the end of the first of these sections. Although I was expecting things to go by fast I'm taken aback by the fact that I've already been here over two months and the speed of which that time has passed. If I can keep jumping to new parts of the world like this I should have life taken care of in a cinch. Ready to turn to mud and start it all over again. I hope that does not sound morbid, it's actually supposed to be a hopeful thought.
To all those with un-responded emails, I apologize. Got knocked out by a cold last week and just started to feel myself the last week. Ok, anyways back to the school. I'm actually taking a request on this one.
Let me first give props to all my friends back home who teach and let them know that I don't have it as hard at them. I need to talk about the difference in my situation and what it means to be a teacher in a school in the States. I do not work for a public school. What I do should be viewed as glorified tutoring. All the kids I work with have English in their regular schools and go to my academy afterwards. Often this is but one of the academies that they go to. Usually the others include, Math, Korean, Science, Chinese Writing, Music and sometimes a general tutoring Academy that reinforces most subjects they are taking in their regular school. These kids also go to school six days a week. Most of the time their day starts around 7 when they get up and doesn't really stop till around midnight (there is a semi-explanation to this, see below). Between School and the academies there is studying and the understandable mountains of homework they have to try and deal with when they get home between 9 and 10:30. Most of us can't even think of comparing our school experiences with what they go through here. Sports are indulgences for the few. There is no drill team or cheerleading that I know of. Most schools require uniforms and the majority of students (I think all) have to pay for education after middle school. This is not as horrendous as it sounds (although not a system I favor either), but the way I interpret it is that in lieu of the various tax systems we have in place parents pay directly to the school for their child's education. On the outskirt this seems fine but then reality sinks in and you quickly realize that there are class divisions and income divisions like there are in any country that work against a system of social equity. The kids whose parents can afford to send them to the better schools, the better hogwans (after school academies) and/or expensive private tutors, DO. I'm unsure whether there are any scholarship-like opportunities for kids who excel but lack the financial means. But if there is I imagine that its depth is a bit shallow and that many kids with the capabilities are left out. Then again at the same time, signs of abject poverty are very difficult to find here. I'm still looking for stats on this but in general the have-nots don't seem to be as desperate as those from my home country meaning that they have something working here pretty well. Not to mention violent crime is all but non existent, but that's another story.
The school/hogwan/academy whatever, is not ideal. I do not pour my entire self into it. I realized that it would be a bad route to try early on. I feel that I would handle this differently in different circumstances, particularly if I were teaching in a public school in the States but it is unrealistic for a number of reasons here. First off, this is not a "real school" as I explained earlier. I can only teach and help the kids who have a desire within themselves to learn. Many are here only because their parents make them come. If this were just one after school activity for them I might try to find ways to make it meaningful for each and every one. But I've already explained the reality of their lives. And to put it quite simply, they are overwhelmed. I do what is asked, but the Hogwan system, at least in my school is systemically flawed. Largely in my part I think to my director who lacks most sense of leadership and whose grasp on English is not strong enough to allow for any cohesiveness between the teachers and the school. We don't have all the resources available to do what we could, and instead we do what is adequate. This is a system of mediocrity and I don't think if varies drastically from academy to academy (at least the English one, I can't comment on the others). They all do gain from the experience, some even greatly, but to say that they all are excelling leaps and bounds from the experience would be a blatant lie. At times our school is a release for the kids as I've talked about at different times. We don't hit the kids (evidently this is still acceptable in public schools), they don't have to wear uniforms, they have the freedom to act with more of their personality here and in general I think this aspect is rather enjoyable for many of the students. So, due to the fact that the foreign teachers don't speak Korean, they probably do get something from the necessity to express themselves in English in this "relaxed" atmosphere. They probably take some liberties, try to see how far they can push things with us at times, but this can likely be interpreted by what they are so much denied in the rest of their lives. It's late, there is so much to say. But I have to say I like most of my students and the majority are responsible for making me smile more in the last couple months than I did the bulk of last year. So on to a brief larger, social criticism.
If one knows anything about this country, or even thinks of the last 100 years you can realize that the country has been faced with some very trying times. If you go back further in their history (read: millennia) you see that oppression and aggression by surrounding countries, particularly Japan has been a constant obstacle. Then, add in the physical issue of the country. They are on a rather small peninsula about the size of Virginia. Herein lies the most densely populated country in the world. They have few if little marketable natural resources. There is a little coastal oil but nothing to make an industry out of. The former agricultural fuel of the economy is all but useless in a globalized age of modern, industrial farming. The rice can keep the people eating but that's about it. From what I have learned from my kids, and this is instilled in them, is that the people, the Human Capital, is Korea's most valuable natural resource. I was impressed at how well some of my students were able to articulate this and more impressed by their understanding what it meant and its implications. Basically, the government has emphasized that the heavy education is in order to make Korea competitive economically. By having an educated, modern population the country becomes both a better source of internal production but an attractive client for foreign investment. To say they are not in many ways modeling themselves after Japan would be a lie but something many Koreans would be likely to admit. They want to desperately put themselves on the map and provide security for their future. Education is the way to do this. Therefore, they push upon the young people an excess of education in an attempt to create very attractive job candidates. Part of this process, in the globalized economy, is obviously the English language which allows many leveraging opportunities in economic world. The way I see it is that the present generations are by others choice sacrificing their childhood (or much of it) so that future generations can prosper. I'm not going to go into it too much but this model has been tried for a while in Japan, and it has brought them a great deal of prosperity, the Asian financial crisis aside. But, recently I've read that there has been some subversion going on with the younger generations in regards to these ideas and norms. From my perspective (and it is as right now an admittedly ignorant one on Japanese affairs) this is partly a reaction of growing up as one of the "haves". The influence of western thought and culture combined with the strict norms of their country and the confining emphasis of large amounts of education has left a younger generation of Japanese thinking that they may just want to live life for themselves. The point is that I'm sensing that in some of my more mature students and I think that depending on how things unfold we might see a similar predicament in the following generation.
How's that for a10 minute cultural-anthropology lesson?
This was supposed to be about how the weather and my comfort level has got my eyes wandering on the streets and my body looking forward to sweating on the dance floor of a new Hip Hop club opening up tomorrow.... Blame it on Shannon. By the way, I'm half way through re-reading Le Grand Meaulnes.
The Spring session at my school is divided into two parts. We're winding down the end of the first of these sections. Although I was expecting things to go by fast I'm taken aback by the fact that I've already been here over two months and the speed of which that time has passed. If I can keep jumping to new parts of the world like this I should have life taken care of in a cinch. Ready to turn to mud and start it all over again. I hope that does not sound morbid, it's actually supposed to be a hopeful thought.
To all those with un-responded emails, I apologize. Got knocked out by a cold last week and just started to feel myself the last week. Ok, anyways back to the school. I'm actually taking a request on this one.
Let me first give props to all my friends back home who teach and let them know that I don't have it as hard at them. I need to talk about the difference in my situation and what it means to be a teacher in a school in the States. I do not work for a public school. What I do should be viewed as glorified tutoring. All the kids I work with have English in their regular schools and go to my academy afterwards. Often this is but one of the academies that they go to. Usually the others include, Math, Korean, Science, Chinese Writing, Music and sometimes a general tutoring Academy that reinforces most subjects they are taking in their regular school. These kids also go to school six days a week. Most of the time their day starts around 7 when they get up and doesn't really stop till around midnight (there is a semi-explanation to this, see below). Between School and the academies there is studying and the understandable mountains of homework they have to try and deal with when they get home between 9 and 10:30. Most of us can't even think of comparing our school experiences with what they go through here. Sports are indulgences for the few. There is no drill team or cheerleading that I know of. Most schools require uniforms and the majority of students (I think all) have to pay for education after middle school. This is not as horrendous as it sounds (although not a system I favor either), but the way I interpret it is that in lieu of the various tax systems we have in place parents pay directly to the school for their child's education. On the outskirt this seems fine but then reality sinks in and you quickly realize that there are class divisions and income divisions like there are in any country that work against a system of social equity. The kids whose parents can afford to send them to the better schools, the better hogwans (after school academies) and/or expensive private tutors, DO. I'm unsure whether there are any scholarship-like opportunities for kids who excel but lack the financial means. But if there is I imagine that its depth is a bit shallow and that many kids with the capabilities are left out. Then again at the same time, signs of abject poverty are very difficult to find here. I'm still looking for stats on this but in general the have-nots don't seem to be as desperate as those from my home country meaning that they have something working here pretty well. Not to mention violent crime is all but non existent, but that's another story.
The school/hogwan/academy whatever, is not ideal. I do not pour my entire self into it. I realized that it would be a bad route to try early on. I feel that I would handle this differently in different circumstances, particularly if I were teaching in a public school in the States but it is unrealistic for a number of reasons here. First off, this is not a "real school" as I explained earlier. I can only teach and help the kids who have a desire within themselves to learn. Many are here only because their parents make them come. If this were just one after school activity for them I might try to find ways to make it meaningful for each and every one. But I've already explained the reality of their lives. And to put it quite simply, they are overwhelmed. I do what is asked, but the Hogwan system, at least in my school is systemically flawed. Largely in my part I think to my director who lacks most sense of leadership and whose grasp on English is not strong enough to allow for any cohesiveness between the teachers and the school. We don't have all the resources available to do what we could, and instead we do what is adequate. This is a system of mediocrity and I don't think if varies drastically from academy to academy (at least the English one, I can't comment on the others). They all do gain from the experience, some even greatly, but to say that they all are excelling leaps and bounds from the experience would be a blatant lie. At times our school is a release for the kids as I've talked about at different times. We don't hit the kids (evidently this is still acceptable in public schools), they don't have to wear uniforms, they have the freedom to act with more of their personality here and in general I think this aspect is rather enjoyable for many of the students. So, due to the fact that the foreign teachers don't speak Korean, they probably do get something from the necessity to express themselves in English in this "relaxed" atmosphere. They probably take some liberties, try to see how far they can push things with us at times, but this can likely be interpreted by what they are so much denied in the rest of their lives. It's late, there is so much to say. But I have to say I like most of my students and the majority are responsible for making me smile more in the last couple months than I did the bulk of last year. So on to a brief larger, social criticism.
If one knows anything about this country, or even thinks of the last 100 years you can realize that the country has been faced with some very trying times. If you go back further in their history (read: millennia) you see that oppression and aggression by surrounding countries, particularly Japan has been a constant obstacle. Then, add in the physical issue of the country. They are on a rather small peninsula about the size of Virginia. Herein lies the most densely populated country in the world. They have few if little marketable natural resources. There is a little coastal oil but nothing to make an industry out of. The former agricultural fuel of the economy is all but useless in a globalized age of modern, industrial farming. The rice can keep the people eating but that's about it. From what I have learned from my kids, and this is instilled in them, is that the people, the Human Capital, is Korea's most valuable natural resource. I was impressed at how well some of my students were able to articulate this and more impressed by their understanding what it meant and its implications. Basically, the government has emphasized that the heavy education is in order to make Korea competitive economically. By having an educated, modern population the country becomes both a better source of internal production but an attractive client for foreign investment. To say they are not in many ways modeling themselves after Japan would be a lie but something many Koreans would be likely to admit. They want to desperately put themselves on the map and provide security for their future. Education is the way to do this. Therefore, they push upon the young people an excess of education in an attempt to create very attractive job candidates. Part of this process, in the globalized economy, is obviously the English language which allows many leveraging opportunities in economic world. The way I see it is that the present generations are by others choice sacrificing their childhood (or much of it) so that future generations can prosper. I'm not going to go into it too much but this model has been tried for a while in Japan, and it has brought them a great deal of prosperity, the Asian financial crisis aside. But, recently I've read that there has been some subversion going on with the younger generations in regards to these ideas and norms. From my perspective (and it is as right now an admittedly ignorant one on Japanese affairs) this is partly a reaction of growing up as one of the "haves". The influence of western thought and culture combined with the strict norms of their country and the confining emphasis of large amounts of education has left a younger generation of Japanese thinking that they may just want to live life for themselves. The point is that I'm sensing that in some of my more mature students and I think that depending on how things unfold we might see a similar predicament in the following generation.
How's that for a10 minute cultural-anthropology lesson?
This was supposed to be about how the weather and my comfort level has got my eyes wandering on the streets and my body looking forward to sweating on the dance floor of a new Hip Hop club opening up tomorrow.... Blame it on Shannon. By the way, I'm half way through re-reading Le Grand Meaulnes.
Sunday, March 28, 2004
about a boy at the beach baying
Okay, this started off about the beach but I broke off into a huge tangent. So that will come tomorrow, this is for now:
(Imagine some discourse about a beach in Korea here. Use your imagination, it will make it more fun)
Something else that stuck out at me was the preference vertical architecture at the beach and the city in general. In most of the cities I've been to if there is a rather tall building it is either an office building or a high-rise condo. Often the building has the ground level reserved for retail space. Even with smaller buildings (and I'm thinking NYC, SF, Barcelona, Paris here) might have a small business or two on the ground and then above that just offices or residential spaces. Here, it's different. This is the norm here and I guess in regards to the beach I'm criticizing that they let this practice encroach quite as close to the beach area as they did. But, you want to go to a bar? Fine there might be one on the ground floor, but more than likely if it's in one of the more happening parts of town, it could be on the 3rd (not too bad), 5th (slightly unusual), or 9th (wait a sec, there is only one elevator here) floor of a building. They look like the should be office buildings but they're all service spaces of some sort all the way up. And it doesn't stop with bars and restaurants. I've been to two shopping centers like this.
The first place I went to is typical Korea. It's like all the outdoor flea-markets that we're familiar with and you'd expect in a developing nation like this selling knock offs of everything you could imagine and a little of everything else too, but in the age of modernization this new 'mall' has been built UP. Not just two or three stories mind you, but six or seven stories and more. And these aren't real stores in this particular place, but booths where I think you can haggle the price and sometimes have to swat off the competitor across the aisle if you're looking at something. That is this one place (I don't remember the name), now the other is the Lotte department store.
Now this is not a department store in an American sense I just can't think of another word for it. I guess you could call it a shopping/movie/theater fire hazard. That is probably the best way to describe it. We were there two weeks ago to go see Big Fish. You have to jump on the foreign films while they're here quick because unless there the Lord of the Rings or Harry Potter they're gone within a week or two. Anyway, you walk in and it looks like this sort of chic Neiman Marcus type of place if you stuffed it about 5 times the capacity limit and increased the sales staff to something like one person for every five products. That is the first floor. The movie theater was on the 10th floor. There are two elevators to the place and one escalator. J- and I often try to take the stairs when there is a long line for an elevator and this one looked like it took some experience as a linebacker to get into so we said screw it and told our friends we'd meet them on the top, betting on who would get there first. The firs three floors went fine. We're both in decent shape, no concerns. Then the ceilings started to get lower, then about the 5th floor an assortment of costumes started to appear on the staircase. ok. So we figure out there is a theater in the place, fine good information to know. Luckily there were no wandering cast members coming through the stairwell and we figure we're half way there so we'll just walk past the guy with his door open who is watching tv. He might be security and we definitely passed a sign that said "somekindofperson ONLY" but it was in Korean and we figured we could play stupid if anyone asked. On we went. The costumes disappeared and while we did find it a little disconcerting that there were no doors that we could spot that led back into the department store part of the building we were the slightest bit shocked when we finally got to a door that was about 4ft by 4ft and locked. That was the end. We had discovered the rabbit hole but he'd gone home for the night and wasn't allowing any more guests. 30 minutes later when went back down the stairs and then had to fight our way onto the elevators we finally met our friends. The showtime we wanted had sold out and we had to wait till one almost two hours away.
We decided to browse a bit at some of the lower floors and play it by ear. Wait, did I mention that we never did successfully locate an actual staircase that went down? Remember that the frigging movie theater is on the 10th floor. Each floor below us had something between 500-1000 people on it. I swear. I cannot estimate crowds for shit but it was a big weekend shopping day and we were getting claustrophobic after about 15 minutes. We paused to eat on the eleventh floor where I noticed that there were signs for an emergency exit. Evidently if things get crazy you're supposed to open the window and shimmy down the wall by a cable. That is nice. I'm glad I've taken all those classes on mountain climbing and I'm sure the other six thousand people in the building were equally trained. We snacked and went downstairs to "browse".
Me and the other foreigners couldn't even really think of browsing through the stuff, beside the fact that I didn't have any money to be spending on clothes there was no way I could casually browse. This was full contact shopping. If you were brave enough to fight your way to an item you would then be jumped upon by a sales person, or two or three. This wasn't even foreigner special treatment, this was just reality. The line to the elevator moved fast but still wrapped around the center of the building like a them park ride. By the time we descended the three of us foreigners must have traded a dozen looks of astonishment and they still carried the same weight on the 9th floor as the did when we finally made it out of the building to breather the not so fresh air. We hadn't even seen the movie but were seriously re-considering even though we had our tickets in our pockets. All we could think of were images of some fire breaking out and the disaster being immense with us in the middle of it. We went and got coffee. I had my laptop on it and it has Tony Hawk's Pro Skater version who knows what on it. I don't play video games. But I had opened out of curiosity on the subway down there and was having fun "designing a skater". You can pick the shape, ethnicity, build, clothes even how big their hands are and what tattoos you would like them to have. So, we chatted and designed our Korean friends virtual boyfriends. We never could figure out how to make them skate. That's romance in the digital age for you. We made it to the movie and by the time it let out the most of the place had cleared out and the intimidation factor dropped to null. Nor a perfect movie but the last 30 minutes make it worth it. That's all for now.
(Imagine some discourse about a beach in Korea here. Use your imagination, it will make it more fun)
Something else that stuck out at me was the preference vertical architecture at the beach and the city in general. In most of the cities I've been to if there is a rather tall building it is either an office building or a high-rise condo. Often the building has the ground level reserved for retail space. Even with smaller buildings (and I'm thinking NYC, SF, Barcelona, Paris here) might have a small business or two on the ground and then above that just offices or residential spaces. Here, it's different. This is the norm here and I guess in regards to the beach I'm criticizing that they let this practice encroach quite as close to the beach area as they did. But, you want to go to a bar? Fine there might be one on the ground floor, but more than likely if it's in one of the more happening parts of town, it could be on the 3rd (not too bad), 5th (slightly unusual), or 9th (wait a sec, there is only one elevator here) floor of a building. They look like the should be office buildings but they're all service spaces of some sort all the way up. And it doesn't stop with bars and restaurants. I've been to two shopping centers like this.
The first place I went to is typical Korea. It's like all the outdoor flea-markets that we're familiar with and you'd expect in a developing nation like this selling knock offs of everything you could imagine and a little of everything else too, but in the age of modernization this new 'mall' has been built UP. Not just two or three stories mind you, but six or seven stories and more. And these aren't real stores in this particular place, but booths where I think you can haggle the price and sometimes have to swat off the competitor across the aisle if you're looking at something. That is this one place (I don't remember the name), now the other is the Lotte department store.
Now this is not a department store in an American sense I just can't think of another word for it. I guess you could call it a shopping/movie/theater fire hazard. That is probably the best way to describe it. We were there two weeks ago to go see Big Fish. You have to jump on the foreign films while they're here quick because unless there the Lord of the Rings or Harry Potter they're gone within a week or two. Anyway, you walk in and it looks like this sort of chic Neiman Marcus type of place if you stuffed it about 5 times the capacity limit and increased the sales staff to something like one person for every five products. That is the first floor. The movie theater was on the 10th floor. There are two elevators to the place and one escalator. J- and I often try to take the stairs when there is a long line for an elevator and this one looked like it took some experience as a linebacker to get into so we said screw it and told our friends we'd meet them on the top, betting on who would get there first. The firs three floors went fine. We're both in decent shape, no concerns. Then the ceilings started to get lower, then about the 5th floor an assortment of costumes started to appear on the staircase. ok. So we figure out there is a theater in the place, fine good information to know. Luckily there were no wandering cast members coming through the stairwell and we figure we're half way there so we'll just walk past the guy with his door open who is watching tv. He might be security and we definitely passed a sign that said "somekindofperson ONLY" but it was in Korean and we figured we could play stupid if anyone asked. On we went. The costumes disappeared and while we did find it a little disconcerting that there were no doors that we could spot that led back into the department store part of the building we were the slightest bit shocked when we finally got to a door that was about 4ft by 4ft and locked. That was the end. We had discovered the rabbit hole but he'd gone home for the night and wasn't allowing any more guests. 30 minutes later when went back down the stairs and then had to fight our way onto the elevators we finally met our friends. The showtime we wanted had sold out and we had to wait till one almost two hours away.
We decided to browse a bit at some of the lower floors and play it by ear. Wait, did I mention that we never did successfully locate an actual staircase that went down? Remember that the frigging movie theater is on the 10th floor. Each floor below us had something between 500-1000 people on it. I swear. I cannot estimate crowds for shit but it was a big weekend shopping day and we were getting claustrophobic after about 15 minutes. We paused to eat on the eleventh floor where I noticed that there were signs for an emergency exit. Evidently if things get crazy you're supposed to open the window and shimmy down the wall by a cable. That is nice. I'm glad I've taken all those classes on mountain climbing and I'm sure the other six thousand people in the building were equally trained. We snacked and went downstairs to "browse".
Me and the other foreigners couldn't even really think of browsing through the stuff, beside the fact that I didn't have any money to be spending on clothes there was no way I could casually browse. This was full contact shopping. If you were brave enough to fight your way to an item you would then be jumped upon by a sales person, or two or three. This wasn't even foreigner special treatment, this was just reality. The line to the elevator moved fast but still wrapped around the center of the building like a them park ride. By the time we descended the three of us foreigners must have traded a dozen looks of astonishment and they still carried the same weight on the 9th floor as the did when we finally made it out of the building to breather the not so fresh air. We hadn't even seen the movie but were seriously re-considering even though we had our tickets in our pockets. All we could think of were images of some fire breaking out and the disaster being immense with us in the middle of it. We went and got coffee. I had my laptop on it and it has Tony Hawk's Pro Skater version who knows what on it. I don't play video games. But I had opened out of curiosity on the subway down there and was having fun "designing a skater". You can pick the shape, ethnicity, build, clothes even how big their hands are and what tattoos you would like them to have. So, we chatted and designed our Korean friends virtual boyfriends. We never could figure out how to make them skate. That's romance in the digital age for you. We made it to the movie and by the time it let out the most of the place had cleared out and the intimidation factor dropped to null. Nor a perfect movie but the last 30 minutes make it worth it. That's all for now.
Monday, March 22, 2004
bang, bang assorted bangs
Well, this entry is a bit overdue but I've got to get it out. So last week I had my first "bang" experience. Now, before you start getting any strange thoughts, let me just clarify that this word translates to "room". We were looking to see what English language films were playing in the theatre and found that there weren't any we wanted to see or hadn't seen, so we looked into what is called a DVD Bang (It's more of an sound too). These places are fairly popular and you can find them in most of the happening areas of town. The concept is real simple. You go to one of these places where they have all these movies to rent, really, and rather than taking it home you watch it in one of the rooms they have set up for the purpose. I was with three friends so we got one of the larger rooms. It's actually a nice setup, I think it costs us about 4 bucks a piece but we were in one of the nicer parts of town so it might be cheaper elsewhere. The room is not too big but large enough. Instead of a couch or chairs there is sort of a floor bed with pillows where you can relax. The TV was one of those large wall mounted flay panel things which is much better than watching things on my dinky 12 inch laptop at home which we've done a couple times. The main drawback is that they sort of control the movie, so if you need to run to the bathroom, there is not a way to pause the film as far as I know. These are very popular with young people, and let's think a moment as to the reason why shall we... So get a movie, go into a small dark room with a friend or lover and "watch" a movie for a couple hours on essentially a bed. I'm pretty sure you can bring in drinks of your own if you wish and most you can smoke in if you so choose. Needless to say, I've heard that quite a few Koreans have some of their first non-movie watching experiences in these places. So, in some regards I'm happy that we got a larger room which I feel was a little less likely target for extracurricular activities. Evidently, they've been required by law to but windows on the door to discourage imaginable actions. Ours did have one, but one of our Korean friends said that this has not been implemented everywhere.
Ok, Bang # 2. The name eludes me on this but these are essentially Karaoke Bangs. Same idea but instead of a movie you go into a room and there are couches, a small stereo setup and a TV where you the lyrics of the song are up on the screen for you. Any of my Austin friends reading this will probably recognize the format, that one was Korean owned, you can tell by the signs which are in Korean. I've actually not been into one of these things yet, don't ask me why. I have such an outstanding singing voice and all. But I've talked to people who have gone and this is what has been described. I don't think that these things are limited to Korea but are extremely popular all throughout Asia. If you remember the scene in Lost In Translation where Bill Murray and Scarlet Johanson's character are doing the Karaoke thing in a small room, it's sort of like that minus the windows and the 20th story view. Here's the one thing, these things are everywhere. Seriously, they're as common as convenient stores. You can't walk down a block that has any commercial business and not see one. It's insane, they take this stuff very seriously over here. This also ties into what will be a future posts about all those "incredible dancing girls". That is not meant to be as suggestive as it sounds but I really want to devote a whole entry on them once I get a camera so I can offer some visual aids to go along.
Bang #3. I also can't remember the name of these. I've yet to go to one of these too and I'll limit my commentary on something I've yet to have first hand experience with. These are basically small spa's or saunas. The chinese/turkish/asian baths and saunas are very popular here as well. The thing is once you go in, you go to a locker room and strip down naked. The sexes are separated in these and the larger type "Baths" both of which usually offer different mineral baths and such. I know that I basically need a Korean chaperone to go into one of these and since I have ZERO male Korean friends at this point I'll have to wait a bit. I promise a full account of the experience if/when it finally happens. I'm actually very interested in this because I think it ties largely into issues of being overly self-conscious about our bodies. This I think is largely a western problem, but I might be speaking too soon. Realize that these things are not some crazy sexual escapade type of place (although I'm sure there are places that cater to that type of thing) but instead are sort of like public pools minus the clothing and the fact that the sexes are seggregated. My hypothesis is that being surrounded by normal non-perfect naked people, faults and all, will help decrease the level of criticism an individual places on their own bodies. I explored this in the States and found it to help me, honestly. Now, I would like to think that is the case but then you see an add on the TV for a skin whitener and you're forced to question your thoughts. Yes, they really have skin whiteners over here, and I think I understand how that came to be but another time... What really drives me nutty is the ads (I think I've mentioned this already) for plastic surgery with the image of Audrey Hepburn on them. It drive me insane to see my goddess used in such a way. So anyway, I will write more about this once I have some first hand experience and am able to talk to people about the topic in depth.
In other news. I spent Saturday night playing Gin Rummy at one of the bars with the usual suspects. Now, I don't know how to play any card games other that Blackjack and even that I have a hard time with. It's not that I have anything insanely against cards I've just never learned. I guess I was annoyed in high school when anytime the teacher paused for more than five seconds that 8 games of VC (a Vietnamese card game that caught on like wildfire with the entire school) would appear out of the blue in any given classroom. I never watched Beverly Hills 90210 either (which I always thought all the men watched just so they would have something to talk to the girls about, Sex in The City anyone??....) I've always been skeptical of anything that appealed to the masses, this is not necessarily a good quality and I'm still confused why Bush is doing so well in the polls. Anyway, once my Korean partner finally started to teach me a bit of how to play Gin are winning streak ceased and that's all I have to say about that.
I'm reading two books currently. I'm still getting through my "at home" book, The Brothers K. and for my subway reading I'm polishing off Salinger's 9 Stories which I've been trying to take in small doses becuase the pages are finite and he published so little. This has gotten me in a Salinger kick again and I'm going to re-read Catcher in the Rye once I finish Teddy. Now, does anyone have any insight on why, when you go to a bookstore here, the English language section will contain the book adaption of every major English language film but inevitably a copy of Catcher in the Rye? This is a country that is still has a rather tenuous relationship with western cultural imports and a pretty strict class system. On top of that there is still an adequate amount of censorship as far as what western things are allowed into the country. You can find all your Eminem CD's at the records store (and blaring from various speakers) but vibrators are illegal. And back to the book, here we have a book that openly and at times rather crassly, criticizes the (admittedly another country's and another time's) status quo. Strangely enough though, Catcher in the Rye might have as much significance in the here and now Korea as it did (and does) in America. I don't know, that's worth a whole entry in itself in the future. But, if anyone happens to run into a cheap copy of "Raise High the Roof Beam, Carpenters" (also by Salinger) would you think about sending it to me? I seem to have given out my only copy back in the States and I can't find it anywhere here.
Lastly, I just found out about this band called "TV on the Radio". I honestly am entirely unsure how to interpret this album. It's Prince, U2, Peter Gabriel and honestly I think a little bit of Morphine mixed with Gospel. I'm so entirely confused but I can't stop listening to "Staring at the Sun" (they're own original). Anyone have other opinions on the band?
"The most singular difference between happiness and joy is that happiness is a solid and joy a liquid. Mine started to seep through its container as early as the next morning."
J.D. Salinger
9 Stories
Ok, Bang # 2. The name eludes me on this but these are essentially Karaoke Bangs. Same idea but instead of a movie you go into a room and there are couches, a small stereo setup and a TV where you the lyrics of the song are up on the screen for you. Any of my Austin friends reading this will probably recognize the format, that one was Korean owned, you can tell by the signs which are in Korean. I've actually not been into one of these things yet, don't ask me why. I have such an outstanding singing voice and all. But I've talked to people who have gone and this is what has been described. I don't think that these things are limited to Korea but are extremely popular all throughout Asia. If you remember the scene in Lost In Translation where Bill Murray and Scarlet Johanson's character are doing the Karaoke thing in a small room, it's sort of like that minus the windows and the 20th story view. Here's the one thing, these things are everywhere. Seriously, they're as common as convenient stores. You can't walk down a block that has any commercial business and not see one. It's insane, they take this stuff very seriously over here. This also ties into what will be a future posts about all those "incredible dancing girls". That is not meant to be as suggestive as it sounds but I really want to devote a whole entry on them once I get a camera so I can offer some visual aids to go along.
Bang #3. I also can't remember the name of these. I've yet to go to one of these too and I'll limit my commentary on something I've yet to have first hand experience with. These are basically small spa's or saunas. The chinese/turkish/asian baths and saunas are very popular here as well. The thing is once you go in, you go to a locker room and strip down naked. The sexes are separated in these and the larger type "Baths" both of which usually offer different mineral baths and such. I know that I basically need a Korean chaperone to go into one of these and since I have ZERO male Korean friends at this point I'll have to wait a bit. I promise a full account of the experience if/when it finally happens. I'm actually very interested in this because I think it ties largely into issues of being overly self-conscious about our bodies. This I think is largely a western problem, but I might be speaking too soon. Realize that these things are not some crazy sexual escapade type of place (although I'm sure there are places that cater to that type of thing) but instead are sort of like public pools minus the clothing and the fact that the sexes are seggregated. My hypothesis is that being surrounded by normal non-perfect naked people, faults and all, will help decrease the level of criticism an individual places on their own bodies. I explored this in the States and found it to help me, honestly. Now, I would like to think that is the case but then you see an add on the TV for a skin whitener and you're forced to question your thoughts. Yes, they really have skin whiteners over here, and I think I understand how that came to be but another time... What really drives me nutty is the ads (I think I've mentioned this already) for plastic surgery with the image of Audrey Hepburn on them. It drive me insane to see my goddess used in such a way. So anyway, I will write more about this once I have some first hand experience and am able to talk to people about the topic in depth.
In other news. I spent Saturday night playing Gin Rummy at one of the bars with the usual suspects. Now, I don't know how to play any card games other that Blackjack and even that I have a hard time with. It's not that I have anything insanely against cards I've just never learned. I guess I was annoyed in high school when anytime the teacher paused for more than five seconds that 8 games of VC (a Vietnamese card game that caught on like wildfire with the entire school) would appear out of the blue in any given classroom. I never watched Beverly Hills 90210 either (which I always thought all the men watched just so they would have something to talk to the girls about, Sex in The City anyone??....) I've always been skeptical of anything that appealed to the masses, this is not necessarily a good quality and I'm still confused why Bush is doing so well in the polls. Anyway, once my Korean partner finally started to teach me a bit of how to play Gin are winning streak ceased and that's all I have to say about that.
I'm reading two books currently. I'm still getting through my "at home" book, The Brothers K. and for my subway reading I'm polishing off Salinger's 9 Stories which I've been trying to take in small doses becuase the pages are finite and he published so little. This has gotten me in a Salinger kick again and I'm going to re-read Catcher in the Rye once I finish Teddy. Now, does anyone have any insight on why, when you go to a bookstore here, the English language section will contain the book adaption of every major English language film but inevitably a copy of Catcher in the Rye? This is a country that is still has a rather tenuous relationship with western cultural imports and a pretty strict class system. On top of that there is still an adequate amount of censorship as far as what western things are allowed into the country. You can find all your Eminem CD's at the records store (and blaring from various speakers) but vibrators are illegal. And back to the book, here we have a book that openly and at times rather crassly, criticizes the (admittedly another country's and another time's) status quo. Strangely enough though, Catcher in the Rye might have as much significance in the here and now Korea as it did (and does) in America. I don't know, that's worth a whole entry in itself in the future. But, if anyone happens to run into a cheap copy of "Raise High the Roof Beam, Carpenters" (also by Salinger) would you think about sending it to me? I seem to have given out my only copy back in the States and I can't find it anywhere here.
Lastly, I just found out about this band called "TV on the Radio". I honestly am entirely unsure how to interpret this album. It's Prince, U2, Peter Gabriel and honestly I think a little bit of Morphine mixed with Gospel. I'm so entirely confused but I can't stop listening to "Staring at the Sun" (they're own original). Anyone have other opinions on the band?
"The most singular difference between happiness and joy is that happiness is a solid and joy a liquid. Mine started to seep through its container as early as the next morning."
J.D. Salinger
9 Stories
Monday, March 15, 2004
flying boxes and grown men crying
About the current events and the throwing, crying and general baby-acting of the S. Korean government at present. Did I mention the 100 or so police officers in full riot gear outside yesterday? Did I mention that half of them looked much younger than me? Now this is explained by the mandatory military service this country still requires. It wasn't even unnerving as one would think. It looked like a whole lot of kids playing dress-up as riot police. My last close encounter with riot cops were at the big anti-war protest in NYC over a year ago. Now, some of those were intimidating. You could feel the tension as they were pushing the swarms of people onto the sidewalks that were impossibly small. The mayor had denied a permit to march and the police were required to block off the center of all the streets. I left when tensions were running high, virtually immobilized against hundreds of other protesters of all shades and ages and my friend who I had drug out started to get a little scared.
Admittedly on saturday I was passively observing but there was never the same sense of impending violence as the people peaceably marched down the streets chanting slogans against the congress. Yes, the fiasco an Thursday, for all of you who caught it on CNN was embarrassing to say the least, but so were the actions the opposition used to impeach the president. On an extremely selfish note, I really don't want this country to destabilize because I'm being paid in Korean Won and owe USD to various institutions. We can all wait patiently to see how this unfolds. Personally I'm still weighing out sentiment. The current president is unique in that he was an outsider from politics and although a lawyer previously, did not have a college education. He appealed to a lot of the youth and ran a hugely successful internet campaign (last part sound familiar?). From what I can gather from the few people I've talked to is that many people have been dissatisfied with his policies and general performance (especially with his loose lips around other country's leaders) but in general most people respect the democratic process that put him in power. So, more than anything, I'm seeing resentment over the actions of the opposition controlled congress where the two opposition parties united to dethrone the current president. I'm not going to go too much more into this because I simply don't yet have the knowledge to comment intelligently, as soon as I talk to some more people I'll open this up a bit more. There is still a two month period where the Supreme Court has to decide the legality and guilt of the current situation. He has been removed from power, and the opposition Prime Minister has power so in some regards "mission temporarily accomplished".
I think a lot of people are sitting back in the States thinking this could never happen there and perhaps they're right. I don't really see Nancy Pelosi having the strength to hurl a ballot box at Tom Delay or Dennis Hastert (it would probably just bounce right off the latter's protruding gut anyway) but remember, I'm in a country that holds physical violence at an extreme low. It ruins one's honor and respectability to a degree that we could only wish for in America. Physical conflict is avoided at almost all costs. Two weeks ago we were watching the demise of a non-fight of some young kids who drank too much. But, instead of fists flying, there was a push followed with the assaulted dropping to his knees, turning the other cheek in a manner. For all our christian-value rhetoric I could never imagine seeing this in the States. And don't think the possibility of alcohol infused conflicts is rare, these people drink to get drunk. Most wouldn't even understand the concept of sipping a coctail. Inhaling is the norm and I've seen more than my fair share of people tossing their last drinks in dark corners or helping their desperately balanced challenged friend on the walk home. The shame of being involved in a fight simply outweighs any western conceptions of pride. Here, honor, especially among friends (and these two were likely friends based on the observations of the others trying to dissuade the conflict), is valued above all. The point is, if this type of choas can break out in this peaceful country's most venerated institutions, what makes us think that we are immune with a congress that is still debating the rights of owning automatic weapons and trying to repeal the Brady Bill? Who knows, maybe a bench will be hurled from the rail thin arms of Pelossi over a pro homosexual discrimination bill.
Music: The Reindeer Section
Admittedly on saturday I was passively observing but there was never the same sense of impending violence as the people peaceably marched down the streets chanting slogans against the congress. Yes, the fiasco an Thursday, for all of you who caught it on CNN was embarrassing to say the least, but so were the actions the opposition used to impeach the president. On an extremely selfish note, I really don't want this country to destabilize because I'm being paid in Korean Won and owe USD to various institutions. We can all wait patiently to see how this unfolds. Personally I'm still weighing out sentiment. The current president is unique in that he was an outsider from politics and although a lawyer previously, did not have a college education. He appealed to a lot of the youth and ran a hugely successful internet campaign (last part sound familiar?). From what I can gather from the few people I've talked to is that many people have been dissatisfied with his policies and general performance (especially with his loose lips around other country's leaders) but in general most people respect the democratic process that put him in power. So, more than anything, I'm seeing resentment over the actions of the opposition controlled congress where the two opposition parties united to dethrone the current president. I'm not going to go too much more into this because I simply don't yet have the knowledge to comment intelligently, as soon as I talk to some more people I'll open this up a bit more. There is still a two month period where the Supreme Court has to decide the legality and guilt of the current situation. He has been removed from power, and the opposition Prime Minister has power so in some regards "mission temporarily accomplished".
I think a lot of people are sitting back in the States thinking this could never happen there and perhaps they're right. I don't really see Nancy Pelosi having the strength to hurl a ballot box at Tom Delay or Dennis Hastert (it would probably just bounce right off the latter's protruding gut anyway) but remember, I'm in a country that holds physical violence at an extreme low. It ruins one's honor and respectability to a degree that we could only wish for in America. Physical conflict is avoided at almost all costs. Two weeks ago we were watching the demise of a non-fight of some young kids who drank too much. But, instead of fists flying, there was a push followed with the assaulted dropping to his knees, turning the other cheek in a manner. For all our christian-value rhetoric I could never imagine seeing this in the States. And don't think the possibility of alcohol infused conflicts is rare, these people drink to get drunk. Most wouldn't even understand the concept of sipping a coctail. Inhaling is the norm and I've seen more than my fair share of people tossing their last drinks in dark corners or helping their desperately balanced challenged friend on the walk home. The shame of being involved in a fight simply outweighs any western conceptions of pride. Here, honor, especially among friends (and these two were likely friends based on the observations of the others trying to dissuade the conflict), is valued above all. The point is, if this type of choas can break out in this peaceful country's most venerated institutions, what makes us think that we are immune with a congress that is still debating the rights of owning automatic weapons and trying to repeal the Brady Bill? Who knows, maybe a bench will be hurled from the rail thin arms of Pelossi over a pro homosexual discrimination bill.
Music: The Reindeer Section
life warming
First off, a little complaint about the smoking situation here. They put wet napkins in the ashtrays I guelkijkooiuyuiokiolkiujikokkijkji (pardon that, I got some foam on the keyboard and had to clean it off), where was I? Oh, I guess it makes it easier to extinguish and clean but if you're like me when you're sitting here trying to get some writing done you tend to put your cigarette to the side as you type, occasionally lifting it up to take a drag. The alternative is to leave the cigarette in your mouth but in a room without much moving air smoke inevitably gets in your eyes and make you squint like Popeye. Something has to be done about this. But, then again, I'm always the only person with a laptop at a coffee shop writing.,.
Today is White Day (March 14). This is sort of a reactionary holiday to attempt to balance out Valentine's Day which here mainly is the woman treating the man. So, White day is the opposite, the man treats the woman. They thought this was such a great idea that now there is a holiday the 14 of every month. Next month is black day, it's for all those unlucky bastards that didn't get laid the two previous months. You get together with all your other single friends and eat black noodles, cry in your Soju and talk about how desperately you want to be with someone and console each other in your collective loneliness. Ok, maybe I added some flourishes there but that is the basic idea and you do eat black noodles. After that I think it's tapioca day or something, I'll let you know when the time rolls around. But, there are hellava lot of couple around today, more than usual. Sometimes dressing in unison, usually not without at least one camera between them if not up to three when you count the camera phones that everyone seems to have. Ok, there goes a couple walking by in matching blue "Italia" sports jackets. Sometimes this can be too much. Funny what can be a catastrophic fashion mistake in one country can be an endearing show of affection in another.
Okay, a moment about the flesh colored tights. The gist of it is that almost all the women were them. I feel like this is what would happen if all the Asian Hooter's women escaped, multiplied and swarmed the streets in civilian clothes. Haven't gotten a good answer on this but it's up for speculation. More than likely a simple transition from a more sexually closed society to a more open one. I'll talk more about the perceptions of sex at some point if I can actually get any Koreans to open up the subject honestly.
The weeks are proving rather uneventful for aforesaid reasons but the weather is picking up and actually inspired me to go out for my first Korean run last night. I felt good but didn't go too hard and look forward to getting back into making that a habit. Even though I ran on a rather large public street it was comforting that I was not stared at like I expected with my glowing white, skinny legs and all. Last night I made it out to the PNU area again (Pusan National University) which is thriving with life. P- & A-, the couple who helped get me out here live in the area. P- actually teaches at the University and they took me out for a bit. I was a loser and missed dinner but finally made it out for drinks afterwards. I was mainly looking for some good conversation and they took me over to one of the western bars called "Crossroads" that was rather cozy if not a little bright. A lot of the bars and places tend to go a bit overboard with the light. A- says this is because for so many years electricity was a luxury and as the country has developed over the last 20 or so years, and everything is affordable, that they tend to make it feel like you're under one of the dental lamps every time you walk into a place. Good if you want to check out a person across the bar, not so good if you're hoping for some flattering soft light to cover up a pimple that decided to plague your weekend. It also makes dancing a bit intimidating.
I'm chopping this entry in two, another soon as half of it is already written.
Music: The Remote Viewer - Endorphined
hebetude
______________________________________________________
"The worst that being an artist could do to you would be that it would make you slightly unhappy constantly."
J.D. Salinger
9 Stories (160)
Today is White Day (March 14). This is sort of a reactionary holiday to attempt to balance out Valentine's Day which here mainly is the woman treating the man. So, White day is the opposite, the man treats the woman. They thought this was such a great idea that now there is a holiday the 14 of every month. Next month is black day, it's for all those unlucky bastards that didn't get laid the two previous months. You get together with all your other single friends and eat black noodles, cry in your Soju and talk about how desperately you want to be with someone and console each other in your collective loneliness. Ok, maybe I added some flourishes there but that is the basic idea and you do eat black noodles. After that I think it's tapioca day or something, I'll let you know when the time rolls around. But, there are hellava lot of couple around today, more than usual. Sometimes dressing in unison, usually not without at least one camera between them if not up to three when you count the camera phones that everyone seems to have. Ok, there goes a couple walking by in matching blue "Italia" sports jackets. Sometimes this can be too much. Funny what can be a catastrophic fashion mistake in one country can be an endearing show of affection in another.
Okay, a moment about the flesh colored tights. The gist of it is that almost all the women were them. I feel like this is what would happen if all the Asian Hooter's women escaped, multiplied and swarmed the streets in civilian clothes. Haven't gotten a good answer on this but it's up for speculation. More than likely a simple transition from a more sexually closed society to a more open one. I'll talk more about the perceptions of sex at some point if I can actually get any Koreans to open up the subject honestly.
The weeks are proving rather uneventful for aforesaid reasons but the weather is picking up and actually inspired me to go out for my first Korean run last night. I felt good but didn't go too hard and look forward to getting back into making that a habit. Even though I ran on a rather large public street it was comforting that I was not stared at like I expected with my glowing white, skinny legs and all. Last night I made it out to the PNU area again (Pusan National University) which is thriving with life. P- & A-, the couple who helped get me out here live in the area. P- actually teaches at the University and they took me out for a bit. I was a loser and missed dinner but finally made it out for drinks afterwards. I was mainly looking for some good conversation and they took me over to one of the western bars called "Crossroads" that was rather cozy if not a little bright. A lot of the bars and places tend to go a bit overboard with the light. A- says this is because for so many years electricity was a luxury and as the country has developed over the last 20 or so years, and everything is affordable, that they tend to make it feel like you're under one of the dental lamps every time you walk into a place. Good if you want to check out a person across the bar, not so good if you're hoping for some flattering soft light to cover up a pimple that decided to plague your weekend. It also makes dancing a bit intimidating.
I'm chopping this entry in two, another soon as half of it is already written.
Music: The Remote Viewer - Endorphined
hebetude
______________________________________________________
"The worst that being an artist could do to you would be that it would make you slightly unhappy constantly."
J.D. Salinger
9 Stories (160)
Tuesday, March 09, 2004
overdue fiascos and the most honorablest mention
Long absence. Internet finally and I have the key to my apartment tonight.
First off a solemn note. I know it's on the news but Spalding Gray was found dead this morning after an apparent suicide. For any of you who have heard my discourse about why I carry a flask to a bar and how one goes about successfully refilling your drink without anyone noticing, well this is the guy I stole that pitch from. Most of you know I'm not one to watch all that many comedies on TV or in the movies, but this actor/writer/performer/emotional exhibitionist who wrote in such a naked and humorous way about life is someone I greatly admired. Here is a man who, whether it be on stage or on film, could sit down for two hours and hold your attention with no accessories other than a glass of water, a prop book, a desk, a couple lighting changes and whatever clothes he happened to be wearing that day. He told you stories with only small flourishes from his own life and razor-sharp observation that left you questioning if you should be crying in the middle of your pained laughter. A person who could talk about being in Russia begging for a drink and then have you rolling with a simple one line deliver of "One day, no Vodka". I think I must have been in high school when one night I was channel surfing and saw this middle-aged, greying man sitting on a stage. I'm not sure what caught my attention at the time other than it looking like he was doing a theater piece and wondering how it got on HBO or whatever move cable channel. Then I got sucked in. Here was the George Carlin of the stage without the bitterness. Here was a 40 year old child who at once saw innocence while dealing with his own depression. Sorrow brought on precisely because of the struggle that innocence leaves on an aging person who is great enough to maintain it. I regret not backtracking when you brushed past me outside the Paramount in Austin a couple years ago. It hit me moments too late once you'd dipped back into the theater. There was a presence that was at once as light as the clouds and at the same moment carried a weight heavier than most people dare face. I could barely make out the feeling as I stood between the two outside the door, my bafflement in hand. Mr. Gray, wherever you ended up when you jumped two months ago and washed onto the dirty shore that our cultivated and mature world has built in the name of progress, I hope you have found your peace. It's a desperate truth that so bare and warm a light is so frequently extinguished before its time.
So, did you ever hear the one about the stupid foreigner who paid about 300% too much for a 3 dollar cab ride because the incorrect denomination looked strangely familiar to his home currency (or maybe he was just stupid and not paying attention)? Then, as he stood knowing something was wrong in front of the two audience-less and unenthusiastic dancing advertising girls (there will be a whole entry at some point on this phenomenon), took off into a sprint down the street weighted by a needlessly heavy backpack to recover his lost funds? Did you hear that the taxi turned before right before he caught up with it, the driver thinking 'damn those foreigner tip well..."
Well, what about the one about the same sometimes absent minded guy readying his pockets after a day at work only to leave his keys sitting dead-center of his desk? Well, he got home unable to enter it. Slept on his coworker's floor.
Then there was this guy, who after a night of sleeping on someone's floor came home to an apartment flooded by his mysteriously pissed off washing machine. Then he went down to get the superintendent on this one, further reinforcing his expectation that foreign residents are nothing but pain in the ass monkey's with big eyes. Well, that's how things go.
Now, I would like to say that these things happened to different people, but in fact they've all been the situations of yours truly here in S. Korea. I'd like to think that I'm in the clear now but bad things do seem to happen in threes, and the first of these tales happened a couple weeks ago and I believe this disqualifies it from the trio. So, what blunder, accident, act of god will await me tomorrow? Tune in tomorrow, same bat time, same absurd channel.
Ok, this entire entry has nothing to do with Korea per se. And I'm just going to leave it at that. I have another entry in my head, and it will have to wait for tomorrow. Sorry folks. Next one actually will deal with life here.
"I remember standing in that second-story window and looking down, wondering if I really had the courage to jump and if I did would it kill me from such a small height. I think I figured I'd just break a leg or something and end up in a cast for the rest of the summer, and that would be much better than dying because of all the attention I'd get. But then I also realized that Mom wouldn't be able to give me any attention, because she was cracking up and needed all of it for herself."
-- Spalding Gray
from Impossible Vacation
Music: Broken Social Scene
Mood: Shit, figure out from the entry.
It's really late, this is really long and I've not said half of what I need to so I'm going on to one more topic somewhere in between the tone of the preceding topics of this entry. Let's start, shall we?
Saturday night and life in a nutshell.
"There's no doubt in my mind that once you begin to have a clear sense that you are going to die, you really begin to live — and that's all there really is, because the meaning of life is in the living of it."
– Spalding Gray
"I remember standing in that second-story window and looking down, wondering if I really had the courage to jump and if I did would it kill me from such a small height. I think I figured I'd just break a leg or something and end up in a cast for the rest of the summer, and that would be much better than dying because of all the attention I'd get. But then I also realized that Mom wouldn't be able to give me any attention, because she was cracking up and needed all of it for herself."
-- Spalding Gray
from Impossible Vacation
First off a solemn note. I know it's on the news but Spalding Gray was found dead this morning after an apparent suicide. For any of you who have heard my discourse about why I carry a flask to a bar and how one goes about successfully refilling your drink without anyone noticing, well this is the guy I stole that pitch from. Most of you know I'm not one to watch all that many comedies on TV or in the movies, but this actor/writer/performer/emotional exhibitionist who wrote in such a naked and humorous way about life is someone I greatly admired. Here is a man who, whether it be on stage or on film, could sit down for two hours and hold your attention with no accessories other than a glass of water, a prop book, a desk, a couple lighting changes and whatever clothes he happened to be wearing that day. He told you stories with only small flourishes from his own life and razor-sharp observation that left you questioning if you should be crying in the middle of your pained laughter. A person who could talk about being in Russia begging for a drink and then have you rolling with a simple one line deliver of "One day, no Vodka". I think I must have been in high school when one night I was channel surfing and saw this middle-aged, greying man sitting on a stage. I'm not sure what caught my attention at the time other than it looking like he was doing a theater piece and wondering how it got on HBO or whatever move cable channel. Then I got sucked in. Here was the George Carlin of the stage without the bitterness. Here was a 40 year old child who at once saw innocence while dealing with his own depression. Sorrow brought on precisely because of the struggle that innocence leaves on an aging person who is great enough to maintain it. I regret not backtracking when you brushed past me outside the Paramount in Austin a couple years ago. It hit me moments too late once you'd dipped back into the theater. There was a presence that was at once as light as the clouds and at the same moment carried a weight heavier than most people dare face. I could barely make out the feeling as I stood between the two outside the door, my bafflement in hand. Mr. Gray, wherever you ended up when you jumped two months ago and washed onto the dirty shore that our cultivated and mature world has built in the name of progress, I hope you have found your peace. It's a desperate truth that so bare and warm a light is so frequently extinguished before its time.
So, did you ever hear the one about the stupid foreigner who paid about 300% too much for a 3 dollar cab ride because the incorrect denomination looked strangely familiar to his home currency (or maybe he was just stupid and not paying attention)? Then, as he stood knowing something was wrong in front of the two audience-less and unenthusiastic dancing advertising girls (there will be a whole entry at some point on this phenomenon), took off into a sprint down the street weighted by a needlessly heavy backpack to recover his lost funds? Did you hear that the taxi turned before right before he caught up with it, the driver thinking 'damn those foreigner tip well..."
Well, what about the one about the same sometimes absent minded guy readying his pockets after a day at work only to leave his keys sitting dead-center of his desk? Well, he got home unable to enter it. Slept on his coworker's floor.
Then there was this guy, who after a night of sleeping on someone's floor came home to an apartment flooded by his mysteriously pissed off washing machine. Then he went down to get the superintendent on this one, further reinforcing his expectation that foreign residents are nothing but pain in the ass monkey's with big eyes. Well, that's how things go.
Now, I would like to say that these things happened to different people, but in fact they've all been the situations of yours truly here in S. Korea. I'd like to think that I'm in the clear now but bad things do seem to happen in threes, and the first of these tales happened a couple weeks ago and I believe this disqualifies it from the trio. So, what blunder, accident, act of god will await me tomorrow? Tune in tomorrow, same bat time, same absurd channel.
Ok, this entire entry has nothing to do with Korea per se. And I'm just going to leave it at that. I have another entry in my head, and it will have to wait for tomorrow. Sorry folks. Next one actually will deal with life here.
"I remember standing in that second-story window and looking down, wondering if I really had the courage to jump and if I did would it kill me from such a small height. I think I figured I'd just break a leg or something and end up in a cast for the rest of the summer, and that would be much better than dying because of all the attention I'd get. But then I also realized that Mom wouldn't be able to give me any attention, because she was cracking up and needed all of it for herself."
-- Spalding Gray
from Impossible Vacation
Music: Broken Social Scene
Mood: Shit, figure out from the entry.
It's really late, this is really long and I've not said half of what I need to so I'm going on to one more topic somewhere in between the tone of the preceding topics of this entry. Let's start, shall we?
Saturday night and life in a nutshell.
"There's no doubt in my mind that once you begin to have a clear sense that you are going to die, you really begin to live — and that's all there really is, because the meaning of life is in the living of it."
– Spalding Gray
"I remember standing in that second-story window and looking down, wondering if I really had the courage to jump and if I did would it kill me from such a small height. I think I figured I'd just break a leg or something and end up in a cast for the rest of the summer, and that would be much better than dying because of all the attention I'd get. But then I also realized that Mom wouldn't be able to give me any attention, because she was cracking up and needed all of it for herself."
-- Spalding Gray
from Impossible Vacation
Thursday, March 04, 2004
Something White, Lots of White
Sorry, for the absence. The weekend found me slightly ill and this will be a short entry but more soon. Internet access soon, tomorrow or Friday I promise!!
It snowed today. Caught us all by surprise, I walked out of one of the windowless classes, kids were twisting and flying every which direction at twice the normal speed. I was only slightly confused when my director informed me of the surprise in the weather. Snow here is about as common as it is in the southern part of Texas, every few years at best. Since the oldest we have is 14 and the average is about 11, this is the first snow that many of them have ever really seen. Many probably harbored the same fantasies we did coming from warmer climates. Images of snowmen, snowball fights and school cancellations. The reality in the south is that the snow is usually melted by noon and if you get out early enough you can scrape enough of the thin layer of snow from the roof of five cars to make one snowball. You exchange this with the one friend who lives on your street and desperately try to salvage a second round but rarely make it to a third before your supply is exhausted. A snowman for the Houston-born (and Busan-born) child will likely remain a fantasy of christmas specials and Dr. Seuess books.
Our northern-born parents will tell tales of being snowed in and how the frigid, bone-wearing weather is one of the reasons they flocked to the south to enjoy six month summers filled with as many mosquitoes, hurricanes and humid, sweat & fever inducing nights that a rational person could ever dream of. But then again, I was wearing shorts in January before I left. As for me, it's cold out, I'm warming up with my wine since I'm out of whiskey. Back to class, it was exciting. Dreamy eyes were always drifting to whitewashed windows longing for an escape from the school sentence. One of the millions of advantages of good public transportation is not its ability to withstand inclimate weather, school will go on tomorrow. The subways will run and even if there is a bad freeze, things will be slowed but never come to a stop and these kids will only have to face their normal 12 hour school days under the burden of heavier coats, gloves and a hat. Their eyes long for the window not only in hopes of play but also for a break. We offer none.
It's late at night as I write this. I look out my window onto a busy thoroughfare usually populated with the green topped lights of hundreds of taxis. Only four are within eyeshot. The mountains surrounding Busan I like to imagine are briefly white beneath a dark sky and fuzzy pollution. The streets gently carry a semi-gloss. I wonder how I'll wake up other than being terribly cold.
Music: ...Trail of Dead (Mark David Chapman)
It snowed today. Caught us all by surprise, I walked out of one of the windowless classes, kids were twisting and flying every which direction at twice the normal speed. I was only slightly confused when my director informed me of the surprise in the weather. Snow here is about as common as it is in the southern part of Texas, every few years at best. Since the oldest we have is 14 and the average is about 11, this is the first snow that many of them have ever really seen. Many probably harbored the same fantasies we did coming from warmer climates. Images of snowmen, snowball fights and school cancellations. The reality in the south is that the snow is usually melted by noon and if you get out early enough you can scrape enough of the thin layer of snow from the roof of five cars to make one snowball. You exchange this with the one friend who lives on your street and desperately try to salvage a second round but rarely make it to a third before your supply is exhausted. A snowman for the Houston-born (and Busan-born) child will likely remain a fantasy of christmas specials and Dr. Seuess books.
Our northern-born parents will tell tales of being snowed in and how the frigid, bone-wearing weather is one of the reasons they flocked to the south to enjoy six month summers filled with as many mosquitoes, hurricanes and humid, sweat & fever inducing nights that a rational person could ever dream of. But then again, I was wearing shorts in January before I left. As for me, it's cold out, I'm warming up with my wine since I'm out of whiskey. Back to class, it was exciting. Dreamy eyes were always drifting to whitewashed windows longing for an escape from the school sentence. One of the millions of advantages of good public transportation is not its ability to withstand inclimate weather, school will go on tomorrow. The subways will run and even if there is a bad freeze, things will be slowed but never come to a stop and these kids will only have to face their normal 12 hour school days under the burden of heavier coats, gloves and a hat. Their eyes long for the window not only in hopes of play but also for a break. We offer none.
It's late at night as I write this. I look out my window onto a busy thoroughfare usually populated with the green topped lights of hundreds of taxis. Only four are within eyeshot. The mountains surrounding Busan I like to imagine are briefly white beneath a dark sky and fuzzy pollution. The streets gently carry a semi-gloss. I wonder how I'll wake up other than being terribly cold.
Music: ...Trail of Dead (Mark David Chapman)
Wednesday, March 03, 2004
Familiar Weather
I've got my writing hat on, let's see where this goes.
So when we last parted, I was strapped for time and had to jet because the fuzz had caught onto my trail, wait, wrong book...
No, so I had to get all the way back to my place, make a call and then come back to where I had started in Seomeon. Well that started ok. Aside from the lack of familiar faces I was walking around with the tunes in my head making my footsteps light. I was buzzing through the little underground shopping mall on my way to the subway stop and thought I was going to make good time. Well, wouldn't you know it if someone didn't move the damn subway! I mean really, I walked exactly the way I came, made it to a dead end and scratched my head with that dumbfounded look that our (Republican readers please skip the next five words) President has made so popular. And you know what? No subway. So I backtracked my path like they taught us to do in the Boy Scouts. I peered through the windows, finding the same 80 stores peddling their suits, nike shoes and sportswear, and ladies lingerie. I pulled out the compass and it confirmed that I was in the middle of the underground shopping wilderness. I climbed the stairs back to the street level hoping to find a landmark to put me in my place. It's funny how one's sense of direction can get so jacked when you're 60 feet underground. The street was of little help, all the signs were still in Korean and the magic marker I had hoped for was nowhere in sight. I descended again, beads of sweat around my ticking watch betraying my good mood. I walked back the same way, and wouldn't you know it, the subway had moved back to where it had been absent only a few minutes before. So, somewhat relieved I happily jumped on the subway going the wrong direction.
One, two, skip a few... So I eventually made it back miraculously only about 20 minutes late. We all met up. It was me, A, the lovely young woman who was my recruiter and got me here along with her boyfriend P, the two other foreign teachers from my school (J & S) and our Korean friends who all had somehow managed to find sake which they had been sipping on since I had left them several hours earlier. We hit a western bar and had a Korean Manhattan. This was a typical Korean moment. When you do find a place that serves cocktails, don't be surprised that the drink that is supposed to be mildly sweet and have a cherry anchored to the bottom is replaced with an olive. Furthermore, don't bother to question where they got the olive when you've been to a dozen markets and have not seen a single olive for sale. Some things are best left as life's little mysteries. But if you do, don't look at the movie posters that act as some sort of status symbols for bars and coffee houses here and wonder why they seem to be sole purveyors of American flop films starring Winona Ryder and Richard Gere as star crossed lovers. Don't look around at the cafe and wonder what exactly they were going for when they drape fake vines through the bars that separate the tables and then match this with cow-print sofas. Don't be taken aback when you nickname said coffee shop The Romantic Cow and whatever happens, never question this country's fascination with Kenny Rogers which you WILL find on a signboard at least once every two subway stops. It's a Korean thing you wouldn't understand I don't imagine I'm going to either. Now, back to my dirty Manhattan.
So, now it's near 1 in the morning and since I decided to hold off on a second drink I'm game for another stop. We hop in a taxi and meet the party up at the Vinyl Underground which thanks to no copyright enforcement can happily use the famous banana as their logo. (What is worse is seeing the plastic surgery advertisements on the side of the bus featuring a rather famous picture of my beloved Audrey Hepburn, but I won't go into that tirade currently). The music, well, the best of Hip-Hop circa 1992. I head House of Pain and even a little MC Hammer. I have a suspicious feeling that they're buying their vinyl from the same place that supplies the movie posters to their cafes. But I don't want to sound overly critical. We actually had a really good time even if the lights on the dance floor were a bit better for sunbathing than dancing. At least you knew what everyone looked like, warts and all. I think my fair complexion blinded a couple people unexpectedly but no one said anything so we continued to dance. Oh, I should mention that the DJ's, well they were foreign. I never heard them speak so we're going to pretend they were Australian just to save American face.
Drizzling night but not too terribly cold. We went to the third place that was pretty much across the street. This is about 3 a.m. or so. I get one more beer and scratch in my little black book Hey Ya! (Outkast) on a couple pages holding it up to the DJ. The atmosphere at this place was a bit more to my liking. You walked down the stairs to a basement environment. The ground was wet from sweat, beer or a mixture there of. People were bringing the rain and humidity in from the streets by the bucket load. And for a brief moment, when we were all out there dancing I felt I might had been back at Nasty's, except there were no black people. That is one constant reminder of where I am. And it's not the absence of blacks, or any particular ethnicity. But you look at this huge city of 4 million, you crawl through the streets, lean to the left as a scooter brushes past you on a sidewalk or U-turns in the crosswalk, you go the market searching for peanut butter when an old woman bumps you in passing without any acknowledgment, or perhaps you look at the university area, look into an elementary playground, into an office, a kitchen, construction sight or corporate meeting, they're all asian. True, every once in a while, you'll catch a sidelong glance at someone like you, probably with the same job, but these are such an ultra minority. This is a city the size of Houston, and I think it's a realistic guess that the non-asian community sits around 1% or below. Not that this should come as much of a surprise, but from western sensibilities you walk the streets of Paris, Rio, London, NYC, San Fran, hell even Tallahassee or Istanbul and you expect some sort of a mixed pallet exiting the subway during rush hour. I'll talk more about this at a later period because I think it deserves much more exploration and this entry was supposed to be about the weather. So I'll just mention in conclusion, that back at that last bar, I went to get a coke because I wasn't really drinking that much, and I let my American sensibilities get the better of me. You usually expect a coke in a bar to cost you no more than a buck or two, always cheaper than a beer or alcohol. Well, I paid 2.50 for my beer earlier and 4.00 for my coke. Maybe this is why most of the Korean men are stumbling most nights.
Well, the weather, it's a bit like Houston. You can wake up, stumble to the bathroom and notice that it's entirely grey and drizzling, fall back to sleep for another hour and wake to clear skies and no trace of precipitation. You can go out in heavy coat on Friday night and the following afternoon find a light sweater making you sweat even though you can't see the sun through the clouds. That it for the evening.
I'm running desperately low on tobacco over here and am not feeling terribly anxious to start smoking the pixie sticks people find so popular over here, so if anyone wants to help out....
And to all those who've been so good to email, thank you. It helps immensely but I apologize for being a bit behind on responding to everyone. But please, keep them coming. I'm going to go climb in bed with Los Hermanos Karamazov.
xoxo,
-c.
Music: Elvis & Mr. Otis Redding
So when we last parted, I was strapped for time and had to jet because the fuzz had caught onto my trail, wait, wrong book...
No, so I had to get all the way back to my place, make a call and then come back to where I had started in Seomeon. Well that started ok. Aside from the lack of familiar faces I was walking around with the tunes in my head making my footsteps light. I was buzzing through the little underground shopping mall on my way to the subway stop and thought I was going to make good time. Well, wouldn't you know it if someone didn't move the damn subway! I mean really, I walked exactly the way I came, made it to a dead end and scratched my head with that dumbfounded look that our (Republican readers please skip the next five words) President has made so popular. And you know what? No subway. So I backtracked my path like they taught us to do in the Boy Scouts. I peered through the windows, finding the same 80 stores peddling their suits, nike shoes and sportswear, and ladies lingerie. I pulled out the compass and it confirmed that I was in the middle of the underground shopping wilderness. I climbed the stairs back to the street level hoping to find a landmark to put me in my place. It's funny how one's sense of direction can get so jacked when you're 60 feet underground. The street was of little help, all the signs were still in Korean and the magic marker I had hoped for was nowhere in sight. I descended again, beads of sweat around my ticking watch betraying my good mood. I walked back the same way, and wouldn't you know it, the subway had moved back to where it had been absent only a few minutes before. So, somewhat relieved I happily jumped on the subway going the wrong direction.
One, two, skip a few... So I eventually made it back miraculously only about 20 minutes late. We all met up. It was me, A, the lovely young woman who was my recruiter and got me here along with her boyfriend P, the two other foreign teachers from my school (J & S) and our Korean friends who all had somehow managed to find sake which they had been sipping on since I had left them several hours earlier. We hit a western bar and had a Korean Manhattan. This was a typical Korean moment. When you do find a place that serves cocktails, don't be surprised that the drink that is supposed to be mildly sweet and have a cherry anchored to the bottom is replaced with an olive. Furthermore, don't bother to question where they got the olive when you've been to a dozen markets and have not seen a single olive for sale. Some things are best left as life's little mysteries. But if you do, don't look at the movie posters that act as some sort of status symbols for bars and coffee houses here and wonder why they seem to be sole purveyors of American flop films starring Winona Ryder and Richard Gere as star crossed lovers. Don't look around at the cafe and wonder what exactly they were going for when they drape fake vines through the bars that separate the tables and then match this with cow-print sofas. Don't be taken aback when you nickname said coffee shop The Romantic Cow and whatever happens, never question this country's fascination with Kenny Rogers which you WILL find on a signboard at least once every two subway stops. It's a Korean thing you wouldn't understand I don't imagine I'm going to either. Now, back to my dirty Manhattan.
So, now it's near 1 in the morning and since I decided to hold off on a second drink I'm game for another stop. We hop in a taxi and meet the party up at the Vinyl Underground which thanks to no copyright enforcement can happily use the famous banana as their logo. (What is worse is seeing the plastic surgery advertisements on the side of the bus featuring a rather famous picture of my beloved Audrey Hepburn, but I won't go into that tirade currently). The music, well, the best of Hip-Hop circa 1992. I head House of Pain and even a little MC Hammer. I have a suspicious feeling that they're buying their vinyl from the same place that supplies the movie posters to their cafes. But I don't want to sound overly critical. We actually had a really good time even if the lights on the dance floor were a bit better for sunbathing than dancing. At least you knew what everyone looked like, warts and all. I think my fair complexion blinded a couple people unexpectedly but no one said anything so we continued to dance. Oh, I should mention that the DJ's, well they were foreign. I never heard them speak so we're going to pretend they were Australian just to save American face.
Drizzling night but not too terribly cold. We went to the third place that was pretty much across the street. This is about 3 a.m. or so. I get one more beer and scratch in my little black book Hey Ya! (Outkast) on a couple pages holding it up to the DJ. The atmosphere at this place was a bit more to my liking. You walked down the stairs to a basement environment. The ground was wet from sweat, beer or a mixture there of. People were bringing the rain and humidity in from the streets by the bucket load. And for a brief moment, when we were all out there dancing I felt I might had been back at Nasty's, except there were no black people. That is one constant reminder of where I am. And it's not the absence of blacks, or any particular ethnicity. But you look at this huge city of 4 million, you crawl through the streets, lean to the left as a scooter brushes past you on a sidewalk or U-turns in the crosswalk, you go the market searching for peanut butter when an old woman bumps you in passing without any acknowledgment, or perhaps you look at the university area, look into an elementary playground, into an office, a kitchen, construction sight or corporate meeting, they're all asian. True, every once in a while, you'll catch a sidelong glance at someone like you, probably with the same job, but these are such an ultra minority. This is a city the size of Houston, and I think it's a realistic guess that the non-asian community sits around 1% or below. Not that this should come as much of a surprise, but from western sensibilities you walk the streets of Paris, Rio, London, NYC, San Fran, hell even Tallahassee or Istanbul and you expect some sort of a mixed pallet exiting the subway during rush hour. I'll talk more about this at a later period because I think it deserves much more exploration and this entry was supposed to be about the weather. So I'll just mention in conclusion, that back at that last bar, I went to get a coke because I wasn't really drinking that much, and I let my American sensibilities get the better of me. You usually expect a coke in a bar to cost you no more than a buck or two, always cheaper than a beer or alcohol. Well, I paid 2.50 for my beer earlier and 4.00 for my coke. Maybe this is why most of the Korean men are stumbling most nights.
Well, the weather, it's a bit like Houston. You can wake up, stumble to the bathroom and notice that it's entirely grey and drizzling, fall back to sleep for another hour and wake to clear skies and no trace of precipitation. You can go out in heavy coat on Friday night and the following afternoon find a light sweater making you sweat even though you can't see the sun through the clouds. That it for the evening.
I'm running desperately low on tobacco over here and am not feeling terribly anxious to start smoking the pixie sticks people find so popular over here, so if anyone wants to help out....
And to all those who've been so good to email, thank you. It helps immensely but I apologize for being a bit behind on responding to everyone. But please, keep them coming. I'm going to go climb in bed with Los Hermanos Karamazov.
xoxo,
-c.
Music: Elvis & Mr. Otis Redding
Saturday, January 10, 2004
initial response
So, I’m sitting in Houston and trying to figure out what to do next. I have roughly around a week till I leave and to say that I’m feeling fine and perfectly at ease with everything would be to lie out my ass. I’m looking over my funds, seeing what else I need to buy, who I need to talk to before I leave, etc.
So far on the list:
• a year’s worth of deodorant
• a cheap watch to cover up the tattoos on my wrist
• a pair of comfortable black shoes for the classroom
• underwear! You always have to be prepared in case I can’t find the right color abroad.
As far as Houston… anyone who’s been here knows what to expect. Aside from the unusual nice weather they’re having I still have to drive 20 minutes to escape the suburbs and find anyplace halfway interesting. For the time being I’ll be living at this little café, Agora, on Westheimer that has added free WiFi access to its menu. Houston being the capitalist center that it is, has obviously been very reluctant to adopt the free model of Internet access. In general, if you find it here you have to pay for it. One of the 1,234,348 reasons why I will never call this town my home again.
New Hampshire primary results start coming in around an hour from now, let’s all hope and pray to whichever gods we prefer that my man Dean makes a comeback. Kerry will get my vote if he gets the nod, but I doubt that I can passionately campaign for him on many issues other than being anti-Bush. I simply see him as your typical politician, spoon-fed instructions on giving sound bites for the last fifteen years. I respect his Vietnam experience and his resulting anti-Vietnam stance when he returned, but it’s not enough for me to make him my candidate for president. Additionally, if he’s unlikable to a southern liberal like me, imagine how he’s going to appear to all the other southern moderates. Dean might be from a “blue state” and come from a wealthy background, but he by no means comes off as a Yankee aristocrat. I still believe Dean has the presence to be a true leader. I’ve said that for the last few elections I, and I believe many other people, have been voting against people more so than for a candidate. That has to change, it’s symbolic of the larger problem our deteriorating democracy and the general public apathy in this country towards everything. All the pundits are sitting around criticizing Dean for his Iowa speech when, if I listen to old speeches of FDR and Truman I heard much the same passion as I hear in Dean, and we called them leaders.
I’m just getting this thing going. I might very well divide up some of the subject matter into different journals.
I’ll go ahead and label the stats of the city I’m moving to:
Pusan –
Population: @ 4 Million
Location: Southeastern tip of Korea. A big port city. Beaches, Yippee!!
Distance to:
Seoul: 141 Miles
Osaka Japan: 428 Miles
And more to come…
So far on the list:
• a year’s worth of deodorant
• a cheap watch to cover up the tattoos on my wrist
• a pair of comfortable black shoes for the classroom
• underwear! You always have to be prepared in case I can’t find the right color abroad.
As far as Houston… anyone who’s been here knows what to expect. Aside from the unusual nice weather they’re having I still have to drive 20 minutes to escape the suburbs and find anyplace halfway interesting. For the time being I’ll be living at this little café, Agora, on Westheimer that has added free WiFi access to its menu. Houston being the capitalist center that it is, has obviously been very reluctant to adopt the free model of Internet access. In general, if you find it here you have to pay for it. One of the 1,234,348 reasons why I will never call this town my home again.
New Hampshire primary results start coming in around an hour from now, let’s all hope and pray to whichever gods we prefer that my man Dean makes a comeback. Kerry will get my vote if he gets the nod, but I doubt that I can passionately campaign for him on many issues other than being anti-Bush. I simply see him as your typical politician, spoon-fed instructions on giving sound bites for the last fifteen years. I respect his Vietnam experience and his resulting anti-Vietnam stance when he returned, but it’s not enough for me to make him my candidate for president. Additionally, if he’s unlikable to a southern liberal like me, imagine how he’s going to appear to all the other southern moderates. Dean might be from a “blue state” and come from a wealthy background, but he by no means comes off as a Yankee aristocrat. I still believe Dean has the presence to be a true leader. I’ve said that for the last few elections I, and I believe many other people, have been voting against people more so than for a candidate. That has to change, it’s symbolic of the larger problem our deteriorating democracy and the general public apathy in this country towards everything. All the pundits are sitting around criticizing Dean for his Iowa speech when, if I listen to old speeches of FDR and Truman I heard much the same passion as I hear in Dean, and we called them leaders.
I’m just getting this thing going. I might very well divide up some of the subject matter into different journals.
I’ll go ahead and label the stats of the city I’m moving to:
Pusan –
Population: @ 4 Million
Location: Southeastern tip of Korea. A big port city. Beaches, Yippee!!
Distance to:
Seoul: 141 Miles
Osaka Japan: 428 Miles
And more to come…
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
