incident on the subway

Anyway, I was on the subway tonight and had a moment that made me want to get back a different country soon. I was carrying around my backpack, a big 5L bottle of water and 2 bags of groceries on the subway when I looked over and saw this man bleeding from his the top of his shaved head, his nose and his knuckles. I felt a bit scared at first and then a bit of pity. I had no idea what had happened, there was no sign of a fight when I got on the subway and it looked like 2 women were trying to talk to him, likely trying help as he held a tissue to his head and the packet in with his other bleeding hand. He was wobbling a bit as he stood. I wasn't sure if he was drunk or just acting strangely because of being beaten. The whole situation made me feel sick. There are a lot of homeless people here, something I haven't really dealt with in a while. Perhaps a little in Thailand but they were a different type, there, the whole country is poor but I don't remember there being many beggars or drunks stumbling around at all hours of the day.

But, as I was looking down, attempting to distract myself with my Japanese flash-cards, trying not to look over to where the man was beginning to talk loudly as he bled, I just thought of how I didn't see so much of this in Japan or Korea. And I did feel sorry for him. He wasn't old, probably around 30 give or take a year. He wasn't dressed conspicuously or anything, just sort of normal with a flannel shirt and jacket, but his hair looked like it had been shaved a couple week ago, meaning it was just starting to grow out, which made me suspicious. I've seen a few skinheads here and heard of some attacks against people and some racism directed against some immigrants, evidently the Vietnamese are sometimes targets. Some are ok I know, but the full on racists, the kind that look to Hitler as a hero, well, I needless to say have no sympathy for. Well, this man stumbled off with the help of one of the women a couple stops before mine and I was selfishly thankful. But then, as he was walking past the subway car, he walks up to the window where this older man is sitting with a fedora hat, and yells something that I can only imagine as "something Jew". I don't know any Czech, but as in any language, some words always sound a bit alike. I looked at the man with the hat, an unusual hat for Prague but not uncommon for some Jewish people. He was sitting with his back to where the bleeding man was the entire time and probably never even saw him. Then he is yelled at, for no reason, than the fact that he may be Jewish.

This problem is not unique to Prague, it's a problem in many parts of Europe, the US, the world really. Poverty exists here because it used to be a Communist country and it's still going through the growing pains of capitalism (positive connotation not intended). There is a small class of very rich and lots of people who live normal simple lives. All the nice restaurants, cafes, stores and such that have popped up over the last 20 years are more for the tourists, not the local Czech people who really can't afford it. I mean, things have improved overall since the Communist period, but sometimes you can feel the resentment towards the foreigners who they view as having so much money. I don't know, it was a difficult situation that has been stuck in my head most of the evening. I know that there will be many things about Japan that will frustrate me, other things that I simply don't like, but at least when I was there I didn't see the poverty and I don't think it exists like it does in so many "modern" countries, like my own. That is one thing I have a lot of respect for.

in the mood for love

Yes, I'm in school, the fact that I'm in Prague is extremely secondary. It's unfortunate but it's the truth. The course has been keeping me that busy and I have to watch the money on any extracurricular activities, I just don't have any. So if anyone wants to donate, or more precisely loan, any money to the international "buy Corbett a sandwich fund" please email directly.

Just to prove how small a world this is, I have to mention what happened last weekend. Not only did I approach a stranger on a hunch and end up setting up free informal Japanese lessons twice a week but the following day, at the same cafe I walk in and stare in shock at a lovely young girl I met back in Austin last year. Yes Nicole, you get your props. She, in the course of a few hours, took me to more places and told me more about this city than I had learned my entire week here. Although we've yet to be able to hang out again, I'm very much looking forward to it. Also, for any of my buddies back home in the education world, she's looking for a private/charter school type of gig for when she returns. Helluva intelligent girl, anyone should feel lucky to have the opportunity to work with her. So, if anyone is need of some English teachers, please let me know so I can put you in contact with her. I don't want to forget about Rachel either who is on holiday from Austin as well. Thanks for giving me probably my most enjoyable night out in the city.

Honestly guys, I'm not feeling terribly inspired at the moment. I've got a huge "Learner Analysis" that is haunting my bag that I've only just begun on. I mean, it's not due for another week, so it's not the end of the world but I've got to pile through the main part this weekend. Perhaps tonight it will give me an excuse to stay in and not spend any money.

The highlight of my week has to be my second watching of "In the Mood for Love". For all of you who have never seen it, do yourself a favor, curl up with no one and fall into this film. It's like peeking in to these beautiful people's lives. The shots of Maggie Cheung in these vibrant, perfectly fitted dresses with splashes of color matching the tea cup she's holding which in turn matches the plant set outside the window. I could watch the scenes of the two main characters walking up down the stairs to the noodle shop for hours, the music is so amazing, it's just like a small poem captured on the screen. I can only imagine though, that in some ways the visuals and the love of the time period in Hong Kong can only be a bit of fairy tale in the way Amelie was for Paris. And damn 2046 for not coming out at the right time or language during my travels!

So yes, not that exciting of an entry. Last bit of news. I fly into Cologne Germany on April 5th. I leave from Berlin to Copenhagen on April 15th and return to Berlin on the 22nd. I'll be booking my ticket to Madrid from Berlin very soon. Anyone who knows people in those places who I should meet or hang out with let me know. I'm already planning on seeing Isaac in Berlin, Celeste in CHP and Christopher in Cologne (he might be coming along with me to Denmark as well). I'll post some more picts as soon as I have them, the camera has been taking a long rest in my bag of late.

much love,

-c.

alive from Prague

First picts to prague and a link to my last Greece picts HERE

Well guys, I'm her step 29434 on my travels. I can't say I have much to report on Prague. Yes, there are cobblestone streets that must be hell on a bicycle, grey skies, gruff people, lots of work with the course, unmarked subway systems, streets that seem oddly desolate other than the surprising amount of cigarette bummers, an absence of children, snow, prices that aren't friendly against the US dollar, snow, lots of work, a radiator in my flat that doubles as a clothes drier, lots of balding people in my life, work, wine, etc, etc.

So really, I got into Prague after an absurd flight from Athens that took me first to London and dropped me in this winter hell at 9 pm that night and left to my own devices to find my way to the student house, which I did dragging my 30 Kilo bag along ice and snow covered sidewalks to get to leaving two nice parallel tracks behind my frigid footsteps. I was welcomed by Stefan, the house manager who showed me to my room, all the other kiddies were out to the welcoming dinner which I missed. After unpacking my clothes, (ohh my god! I have a closet!) I was about to go wander around when the others walked in. It's a nice but small mix. 3 Brits, 4 Americans (including Nandos the 1/2 Greek, 1/2 American, all New Yorker) and one Aussie named Jill who is the only other with some teaching experience. I have to say though I feel pretty lucky, the other three who I share the house with (it's hard to describe) are really cool and I have nothing but positive things to say about them. After a bit of chit-chat, Tom, one of the brits, agreed to accompany me to a pub where I could wind down for the first time all day at midnight. Not much of a place and the two drunk Czech men whose beard were tickling their lap as they were falling asleep with enormous glasses of half-filled beers were threatened to be tipped over by dormant hands, gave us a bit of the creeps. We stayed for one beer.

The next day, it was off to the races. School starts at 11 every day and we all had no idea really what to expect. As my battery is running extremely low, I'll keep it brief, but there is a lot of work and we started teaching our first classes to adult Czech students on Weds. I was little better prepared by simply having taught before as my nerves weren't wound up to explode like most others. It's slightly a throw you to the fire atmosphere, but nothing like it was in Korea. I've gotten more feedback on my teaching in this one week than I did my entire week back home. There is no doubt in my mind that I'm going to walk away from this experience in a much better teacher than I went in. The instructors, all from the UK, are great, dryly humorous honest yet supportive. There is al of work, a lot of analysis and a lot of writing of reports but I think I see the benefit of it all.

But to be real with everyone, my heart isn't in Europe at the moment, it's stuck in Japan. Keiko is there and I'm anxious to get back. The food I used to love, I still do, but I find myself craving lighter fare. The cafes are great but I'll willingly trade them off for a shoebox sized apartment with an address I can't read. I'm distracting myself with the course and working hard but honestly I'm just ticking off days until May when I hope I'll be able to get back to Japan. I've still got plans to make it to Germany, Denmark and Spain, but those will be brief at best and ways to say hellos and goodbyes. I feel like part of me is missing and when I'm walking to the streets alone it's not even with a feeling of solace, but one of absence. I'm repeating the conversations I spoke so highly of only recently. I want to be in one place again, to have a home, to have one place to look forward to, to have one person. All this awaits me as soon as the apartment is signed away and my ticket bought. I'll make it home to the US without a doubt, but for now my craving is for miso soup and that tiny person who fits so nicely named Keiko.

Ok, enough of my sentimental babbling, I'll write a real update about this town as soon as I figure out a damn thing beyond how to make it from Subway to school and back.

Greece Update

First off, all praise to the new Trail of Dead album, which with a mix of The Kills, old The Refused, The Make-Up and Snow Patrol are getting me through this town where uber-hip electronic dominates. It's not that it's bad at all, it's just that as I have always found, throw me in a situation where one things takes precedent, I desire the opposite. Maybe that is part of my past romantic problems...

ANYWAY!!! Here I am. I've done a lot of the touristy things and pictures should be up as soon as I can get my computer connected. I've taken to drinking brandy when I can afford it and this town is ultimately treating me rather well. Everyone smokes everywhere and men only shave when they feel like it. On Monday I climbed up the Acropolis and was able to to see the pinnacle of traveling monuments, the Parthenon. Unfortunately, it is under heavy restoration right now and not only can you not walk inside it all, you are essentially kept several meters away and about a fifth of the structure has been disassembled. Evidently this has been going on for a quite a few years and I shouldn't feel bad thinking that this was a post-olympics phenomenon.

Acropolis essentially means, top, or most important place (not really top, the locations were selected largely for their proximity to water sources) and is not a term limited to Athens at all. All ancient Grecian cities had their acropolis, albeit this, during it's time, stood well above them all in magnificence. But, here the Acropolis consists of three main structures and then several other smaller ones mostly at the bottom of the mountain. On the top is the Temple of Athena and of course, the Parthenon. The third structure is a temple and doubles as a gate into the fortress itself, but I don't recall the name. Largely due to the state of disrepair of the Parthenon, the Temple to Athena proved more impressive. Actually, partly due to the nasty weather and it not being high tide for tourists, there were very few people. When I wandered around the temple there was only me and a couple of middle-aged American women whom I was careful not to speak around fearing inquiry. But, it is one of the more complete structures even though as I found out, all 6 of the Athena figures acting as columns are in fact replicas while 5 of the originals sit inside a British museum and the 6th in a Greek. So be it though, still very impressive just to witness a structure that is (mostly) over 2000 years old and still standing for the most part hinting at its past glory.

Below sits the Theater of Dionysis and the Theater of **** along with several other spots still under excavation and reconstruction. One of the interesting aspects to everything is the fact that you are essentially in the middle of an active archeological site which is one of the most important in Western history. The two theaters below were also magnificent. The ** has been almost completely restored but was blocked off from public access (big surprise). But, I was told that during the summer that it is actually and active venue for performances. The theater of Dionysis is still being excavated and reconstructed but you are free to wander around the seating area which is really powerful. I was fortunate enough to sit down when a group of British high school tourists were checking it out with a couple of their teachers. One of them gave a couple monologues behind the stage area (the stage itself is the only part that is off limits) bus surely enough, all that stuff they taught us in grade school was true. The acoustics are fabulous and even though you're sitting quite far off, and without that benefit of a backing wall, you can hear quite well when things are spoken in a theater volume. When you're traveling and sightseeing alone, occasionally it is beneficial to mooch off the explanation and excitement of others. I do have to mention that, with recent experience, I dodged the group of Korean tourists for fear of being run down or having an umbrella lodged in my skull at the first drop of imminent rain. Will Korean obliviousness be my most lasting memory of that country?

Tuesday was shit. Aside from the dreary weather, the museum I tried to go to was closed as most are in Athens on Tuesday (this happens to me a lot). I wandered around a district that was way too expensive for my taste (or my pocketbook) finally landing in a mediocre internet cafe and then venturing back home to read. Yesterday I rectified that, going to the National Cemetery with Katerina in the morning where she laid flowers down on her families tomb. That may sound like a bit of a strange destination for a tourist but it was really powerful. The monuments, and there is really no better way to describe the tombs for the more important people buried there, are extremely impressive. I'm not entirely sure of the Greek Orthodox burial practices and Katerina wasn't able to explain it to me as much as I would have liked, but these are graves for multiple people and there is no way they could fit coffins in there the way we do in America. Cremation is against the religion so that is out of the question but we did venture into a building holding the remains of many people who for some reason have not been laid to rest. The remains were in metal boxes about the size of three shoe boxes. So, to me, it seems that there might be partial cremation, I'm still unsure about it all.

After the rather morose introduction to the day, I ventured to my Tuesday destination and successfully made it into the most established private historical museum in Athens, The Bernaki. I was determined to get my 6 Euros out of the experience after having been delayed a day and the weather being such utter shit outside. In doing so, I spent about 1 and a half hours on the first floor alone. The whole museum is ordered chronologically which meant that I started off with the Neolithic period and by then end up of it ended up with the introduction of Christianity into Greece in the first few centuries of the first Millennium. Having forgot, I admit, so much of what I learned in grade school, it was quite an educational and impressive experience. This is part of the reason I moved at a snails pace trying to soak in so many of the things that have parted my mind from lack of use. A lot of the exhibition, understandably focused on ceramics, sculpture and jewelry, the most easily preserved of man's original creations. There were only two small problems that arose, one begetting the other. First, as is most of the historic venues here, the floors are of marble. Nice to look at, hell on the feet, even in tennis shoes. I found myself squatting (and thus straining my neck as the sign-age was usually at chest level) at every opportunity by the time I reached the end of the first floor. The museum was laid out quite well and extremely dense, it took me almost 2 hours to complete the first floor as at least two tour groups lapped me in my first hour. By the time I made it, back aching to the second floor, I knew I needed a break. I skimmed the second floor with the intention of returning after I had a coffee and cigarette at the cafe above. Unfortunately after that weather shattered moment (it is quite a worthwhile cafe on the third floor with an amazing terrace) I was just about to pick up where I left off when a security guard (what the hell is there formal name anyway?) pointed to his watch and said "closing". Sure enough, closed on Tuesdays, close early at 5 on Wednesdays.

This reminded me of the fiasco of the previous day. I forgot to mention that before admitting defeat and returning home, I ventured to the National Library, thinking it would be a really nice site and furthermore I could knock out the work I needed to do for my class in a rather classic setting. Well, I walked into the main reading room with no one really batting an eye. I saw no sign prohibiting bags or cameras. I took a couple shots (no flash, and I was discreet) before the Patron Saint of Libraries walked up to me and said something in Greek. Noticing my befuddlement, he immediately switched to English and said, "Can I help you." Getting in reply to this a further look of bewilderment as to how I should answer (I had been sitting all of 30 seconds) he says, "come with me" as to which I said, "hell no, back off old man. I didn't do anything". Actually, I didn't say that, I just bowed my head and followed like the dog that got caught peeing on mom's favorite couch. Then, in minimalist English they explained that I could "look into the room" from the hall, but I couldn't go in. This I did, to save face and play the game, but I had actually got one good shot of the reading room before I was apprehended. Unfortunately, it doesn't really do justice to the ancient text that you could see crumbling before your eyes behind immense ladders and faded wooden desks. A worthwhile momentary adventure. When in doubt play stupid and you'll get further than you might if you played it straight.

Ok, I'll stop here but I have more to tell. I have to meet Katerina in a bit and we're going to see (I think) the Vatican of the Greek Orthodox Church. Today marks the last night of eating meat before Easter (is that Lent? Things are different in this version...) and evidently this is the half-way point and big night for costuming for Carnival. Should be interesting if I can keep the kids out past bedtime.

it's all greek to me

Well I'm here, tired from walking god knows how much under overcast skies that seem to be following me around of late. When I think back to my brief time in Paris, when I did the Eiffel tower I remember that not only was it overcast, but like the buildings of the Acropolis today, were also under construction.

Even though I was listening to Japanese music as I rode the train into town today, I was easily reminded of the qualities in Europe that I like. Everyone smoke, people are less inhibited about expressing themselves and argue with a gentle banter. After leaving Asia, the land of being reserved unless drunk, this place is like a blessing in many ways. But let me not get too far ahead of myself.

I arrived Saturday morning on a plane from Thailand, which must have contained like half of a junior class from some Greek university. Every time I woke from my disjointed sleep there were people walking up and down the isles, hovering over chairs in an unusually festive manner for a 10-hour flight. But it went off without any major problems; immigration asked no questions about my lack of a return flight and moments later Katerina was greeting me with a hug to drive me home.

Her parents live in a beautiful country house about 30 minutes outside the city but still accessible by bus and train (light rail really). Actually, it's probably less than a country house than it was 60 years ago when it was built due to some development but is still amazing. Mediterranean in style, it sits on a rather large piece of land by American standards and there were no less than three "village" gardeners pruning and cutting away at the varied growth in preparation for the spring. One very much caught my attention. A man probably in his 60's or at least that is how life had treated his face, with this large white, billowy even, mustache hiding the greater proportion of his mouth. If he is there tomorrow (it's Monday as I write this) I'll try to get a good picture. The lines of his face, deep-set eyes tell a story all their own and one that I at present don't have the words to describe. The house itself is two stories with wide marble steps that lead up to the second floor and main entrance. I have to admit my confusion at first coming into the house and trying to find my way around. Everything is of immaculate construction; it has the beauty that is mimicked in America but with a lasting quality rarely found anymore. She is not rich, but probably upper-middle class by Greek standards and the house has been owned by her mother's family for some time from what I've gathered. Anyway, it is an amazing place to come to and be able to call home for this week.

Her family is equally amazing. Katerina is working both a little in Greece and in Patras, the city she attended university, working in speech pathology working with both children and adults with various speech impediments. This keeps her rather busy and she had to work a bit the first day I arrived. It has been so long since I've been in a family environment having met none of my friends families in Korea that I was a little nervous at first. But, her mother quickly set me at ease having a similar nature as Katerina and made me feel comfortable quite quickly. She also happens to be an English teacher and I've obviously had no problems communicating. We all sat and talked while eating a homemade spinach pie and pieces of an enormous block of feta cheese that almost brought me to tears along with the glass of wine I got to drink in the afternoon. Katerina went off to work for a couple hours while I continued to talk with her mother, a great start to this new country. Her father seems like an equally amazing person but isn't very confident speaking in English so thus far I've not been able to talk with him as much as I would like. He looks and acts far younger than his 72 years and I was very surprised to learn that was his age. Katerina says that since his retirement as a mechanical engineer he's spent a lot of time in the kitchen and a bit meeting his friends for talk and Ouzo. I have to say I'm extremely thankful for all of them taking me into their home and treating me so well. It's helped make this a great couple of days.

Saturday and Sunday ultimately were rather lazy days. Saturday night I went out and met Katerina's friend Dimitris who was really a great guy and I hope to meet him again. We started out with coffee at one of the ubiquitous fashionable European coffee houses. We ventured through I don't know how many different subjects but spent a healthy amount of time on the EU, what it meant to Greece, Europe, the US and the implications of it's recent expansion, Turkey and god knows what else. I have to say that I was just happy to be talking about these kind of things again. I've said before that I thought a part of my head was slowly being turned being stranded in Korea and Saturday night acted as a much needed wake up call until exhaustion and time difference got the better of me and I fell asleep in the car ride home. Sunday ultimately was a slower version of Saturday with Katerina present the entire day. I overslept causing me to sleep to much and have a difficult time waking up the entire day. In the late afternoon, after a lunch of stuffed cabbage, stuffed zucchini, olives from the family estate and more wine, we went off to meet more friends at another coffee house. Actually, there is little alternative as most places shut down on Sunday entirely. I had another moment that reminded me I was in Europe, looking around at this New York-esque lounge/bar/coffee house and realizing that I was probably the worst dressed in the place (or perhaps the one in the least amount of black), welcome to Europe, I wish I had money to go shopping. Speaking of which, I want to say thanks one more time to a couple of friends who have helped me out on that issue, and no I'm not buying clothes and I didn't hit up the red-light districts in Bangkok. I've decided to use all the money on drugs instead. j/j unless you count nicotine and caffeine.

It's Monday and I've just finished my first day of sightseeing but before getting it all down I'm going to take a rest and let it all sink in. As soon as I can get my computer connected I'll try to post up some pictures. Unfortunately, this is one of the least connected countries in the Western world so it might prove to be a little while, most people here still have dial up at the house. For the moment, I'll watch the passersby of this little cafe and continue to listen to Bright Eyes singing "glory" with the sound of Backgammon dice penetrating my headphones in the background.