Greece Update

First off, all praise to the new Trail of Dead album, which with a mix of The Kills, old The Refused, The Make-Up and Snow Patrol are getting me through this town where uber-hip electronic dominates. It's not that it's bad at all, it's just that as I have always found, throw me in a situation where one things takes precedent, I desire the opposite. Maybe that is part of my past romantic problems...

ANYWAY!!! Here I am. I've done a lot of the touristy things and pictures should be up as soon as I can get my computer connected. I've taken to drinking brandy when I can afford it and this town is ultimately treating me rather well. Everyone smokes everywhere and men only shave when they feel like it. On Monday I climbed up the Acropolis and was able to to see the pinnacle of traveling monuments, the Parthenon. Unfortunately, it is under heavy restoration right now and not only can you not walk inside it all, you are essentially kept several meters away and about a fifth of the structure has been disassembled. Evidently this has been going on for a quite a few years and I shouldn't feel bad thinking that this was a post-olympics phenomenon.

Acropolis essentially means, top, or most important place (not really top, the locations were selected largely for their proximity to water sources) and is not a term limited to Athens at all. All ancient Grecian cities had their acropolis, albeit this, during it's time, stood well above them all in magnificence. But, here the Acropolis consists of three main structures and then several other smaller ones mostly at the bottom of the mountain. On the top is the Temple of Athena and of course, the Parthenon. The third structure is a temple and doubles as a gate into the fortress itself, but I don't recall the name. Largely due to the state of disrepair of the Parthenon, the Temple to Athena proved more impressive. Actually, partly due to the nasty weather and it not being high tide for tourists, there were very few people. When I wandered around the temple there was only me and a couple of middle-aged American women whom I was careful not to speak around fearing inquiry. But, it is one of the more complete structures even though as I found out, all 6 of the Athena figures acting as columns are in fact replicas while 5 of the originals sit inside a British museum and the 6th in a Greek. So be it though, still very impressive just to witness a structure that is (mostly) over 2000 years old and still standing for the most part hinting at its past glory.

Below sits the Theater of Dionysis and the Theater of **** along with several other spots still under excavation and reconstruction. One of the interesting aspects to everything is the fact that you are essentially in the middle of an active archeological site which is one of the most important in Western history. The two theaters below were also magnificent. The ** has been almost completely restored but was blocked off from public access (big surprise). But, I was told that during the summer that it is actually and active venue for performances. The theater of Dionysis is still being excavated and reconstructed but you are free to wander around the seating area which is really powerful. I was fortunate enough to sit down when a group of British high school tourists were checking it out with a couple of their teachers. One of them gave a couple monologues behind the stage area (the stage itself is the only part that is off limits) bus surely enough, all that stuff they taught us in grade school was true. The acoustics are fabulous and even though you're sitting quite far off, and without that benefit of a backing wall, you can hear quite well when things are spoken in a theater volume. When you're traveling and sightseeing alone, occasionally it is beneficial to mooch off the explanation and excitement of others. I do have to mention that, with recent experience, I dodged the group of Korean tourists for fear of being run down or having an umbrella lodged in my skull at the first drop of imminent rain. Will Korean obliviousness be my most lasting memory of that country?

Tuesday was shit. Aside from the dreary weather, the museum I tried to go to was closed as most are in Athens on Tuesday (this happens to me a lot). I wandered around a district that was way too expensive for my taste (or my pocketbook) finally landing in a mediocre internet cafe and then venturing back home to read. Yesterday I rectified that, going to the National Cemetery with Katerina in the morning where she laid flowers down on her families tomb. That may sound like a bit of a strange destination for a tourist but it was really powerful. The monuments, and there is really no better way to describe the tombs for the more important people buried there, are extremely impressive. I'm not entirely sure of the Greek Orthodox burial practices and Katerina wasn't able to explain it to me as much as I would have liked, but these are graves for multiple people and there is no way they could fit coffins in there the way we do in America. Cremation is against the religion so that is out of the question but we did venture into a building holding the remains of many people who for some reason have not been laid to rest. The remains were in metal boxes about the size of three shoe boxes. So, to me, it seems that there might be partial cremation, I'm still unsure about it all.

After the rather morose introduction to the day, I ventured to my Tuesday destination and successfully made it into the most established private historical museum in Athens, The Bernaki. I was determined to get my 6 Euros out of the experience after having been delayed a day and the weather being such utter shit outside. In doing so, I spent about 1 and a half hours on the first floor alone. The whole museum is ordered chronologically which meant that I started off with the Neolithic period and by then end up of it ended up with the introduction of Christianity into Greece in the first few centuries of the first Millennium. Having forgot, I admit, so much of what I learned in grade school, it was quite an educational and impressive experience. This is part of the reason I moved at a snails pace trying to soak in so many of the things that have parted my mind from lack of use. A lot of the exhibition, understandably focused on ceramics, sculpture and jewelry, the most easily preserved of man's original creations. There were only two small problems that arose, one begetting the other. First, as is most of the historic venues here, the floors are of marble. Nice to look at, hell on the feet, even in tennis shoes. I found myself squatting (and thus straining my neck as the sign-age was usually at chest level) at every opportunity by the time I reached the end of the first floor. The museum was laid out quite well and extremely dense, it took me almost 2 hours to complete the first floor as at least two tour groups lapped me in my first hour. By the time I made it, back aching to the second floor, I knew I needed a break. I skimmed the second floor with the intention of returning after I had a coffee and cigarette at the cafe above. Unfortunately after that weather shattered moment (it is quite a worthwhile cafe on the third floor with an amazing terrace) I was just about to pick up where I left off when a security guard (what the hell is there formal name anyway?) pointed to his watch and said "closing". Sure enough, closed on Tuesdays, close early at 5 on Wednesdays.

This reminded me of the fiasco of the previous day. I forgot to mention that before admitting defeat and returning home, I ventured to the National Library, thinking it would be a really nice site and furthermore I could knock out the work I needed to do for my class in a rather classic setting. Well, I walked into the main reading room with no one really batting an eye. I saw no sign prohibiting bags or cameras. I took a couple shots (no flash, and I was discreet) before the Patron Saint of Libraries walked up to me and said something in Greek. Noticing my befuddlement, he immediately switched to English and said, "Can I help you." Getting in reply to this a further look of bewilderment as to how I should answer (I had been sitting all of 30 seconds) he says, "come with me" as to which I said, "hell no, back off old man. I didn't do anything". Actually, I didn't say that, I just bowed my head and followed like the dog that got caught peeing on mom's favorite couch. Then, in minimalist English they explained that I could "look into the room" from the hall, but I couldn't go in. This I did, to save face and play the game, but I had actually got one good shot of the reading room before I was apprehended. Unfortunately, it doesn't really do justice to the ancient text that you could see crumbling before your eyes behind immense ladders and faded wooden desks. A worthwhile momentary adventure. When in doubt play stupid and you'll get further than you might if you played it straight.

Ok, I'll stop here but I have more to tell. I have to meet Katerina in a bit and we're going to see (I think) the Vatican of the Greek Orthodox Church. Today marks the last night of eating meat before Easter (is that Lent? Things are different in this version...) and evidently this is the half-way point and big night for costuming for Carnival. Should be interesting if I can keep the kids out past bedtime.